Lynn Amber - Travel & Photography
sharing my thoughts through words and images
Le Puy Camino – via Podiensis: Auvillar to Miradoux
I have been feeling guilty for the length of time is has taken me to finish recording both of my Camino walks to the blog. But, as I return now to those walks, I realize that it’s okay. I am having such fun reading over my old notes and recalling the small little details of the walks through my photography. It is a bright spot in what seems like an endless, dreary, cold winter! My focus will be on my first camino in the Spring of 2023. I am starting where I left off!
April 28, 2023
Before leaving Auvillar, we did a brief walking tour of the town. I love the beautiful brick and limestone architecture that gives this town its charm.
On our way to the walled town center, we passed by the Eglise Saint-Pierre. Originally built in the 12th century, the church has undergone many renovations overe the years.
We left the church and wandered into the town center to see some of the sites. As is typical of these medieval villages, the streets are narrow and cobbled.
Auvillar was built high on a rock outcropping and was the site of many invasions over the years and changed hands several times. In 1589, it became part of France permanently and due to its fortress-style architecture was subjected to conflicts such as the Hundred Years War and the French Wars of Religion. From the 17th to the 19th centuries, the town was known for its pottery and also its production of writing “pens” from goose feathers. One of the unique features of the town are the ceramic pilgrim figures that are perched on many of the buildings in town. They are very fanciful and fun to discover! Be sure to look up when walking through town!
Our next stop was in the Place de la Halle for a look at the “Halle aux grains” building – an old market place built in the early 1800’s.
I saw signs along the way for a scenic overlook and had to go investigate. The view from the overlook on top of the massive fortress walls was spectacular.
To get back on the GR65 and head out for our walk today, we had to pass through the Tour de l’Horloge d’Auvillar. The clock tower is an historical monument and was built in the later part of the 17th century. It was a very cool piece of architecture!
Much of the walk today was fairly tame with “levelish” ground. The hot and humid weather carried over from yesterday so I was happy there were no major elevation gains! The walking terrain was a mixture of pavement, dirt tracks and small footpaths. The overall distance I had to cover today was a about 17 kilometers! Some guidebooks treat the walk between Auvillar and Lectoure as one stage for a distance of over 32 kilometers. Breaking this into two stages was a much better idea!
Pollarding was a common practice since medieval times in Europe. In ancient times, the trees were pollarded to produce fodder for animals and to produce wood. These days, it is done for ornamental reasons and to keep trees small in urban areas.
Around lunchtime, we started to come upon the village of Saint-Antoine-de-Pont-d’Arratz that advertised a great restaurant called La Coquille de Saint-Antoine. It was obviously a popular pilgrim stopover as we came upon many others who were looking for a rest and some refreshment.
Before heading to the restaurant, we popped into the Eglise de St Antoine – a unique Romanesque style chapel. The plain exterior did not prepare me for the more elaborate interior design.
The restaurant was busy and had a rather festive atmosphere. With outdoor seating, we grabbed a table and ordered some food. Really nice place!
After leaving Saint-Antoine-de-Pont-d’Arratz, the scenery returned to the rolling hills landscape of this morning. It was such a nice pleasant day!
Right about the time I was ready for a water and snack break, I came upon the small hamlet of Flamarens. There was not much here – sort of a one-road village but two structures caught my attention. The Eglise Saint-Saturnin is an old structure in partial ruin. It is believed to have been constructed in the 14th century near to the Château de Flamarens. Together the two structures served as defense positions for the villagers. The Château de Flamarens dates to the late 1200’s and today serves as a lodging for pilgrims.
There was a really nice picnic area just opposite the church where pilgrims could take a break and relax. I was not alone as this was another perfectly placed rest stop!
The rest of the day was uneventful and I arrived in Miradoux early and before my accommodations opened for the afternoon. Chez Vous Chez Nous is a lodging that occupies an old renovated building and has an enclosed garden on the opposite side of the road. They allowed me access to the garden while I waited for the gîte to open. When I was able to check in, our host indicated that the place was full! We had a room with 3 beds and found out we would be sharing our room with Gerald – a pilgrim we have met before from Germany. .As I was checking in, there was also another American couple from Nevada. It was unusual to come across Americans on this journey so it was a nice encounter!
We paid for a demi-pension which gave us both dinner and breakfast for an unbelievable price of 37 euros. Dinner was served outdoors in the walled garden and included an aperitif prior to a multi-course meal. Our roommate Gerald showed us some of his talents when he played the guitar and led us all in a rendition of the Pilgrim Song. There are many different pilgrim songs. I don’t remember the exact one that Gerald sang but I’ve grabbed the pilgrim song lyrics from the movie “The Way”. I just like it.
This is the first step to a new part of my life
a small step for mankind but a giant leap for my mind.
I’ve got so many questions, so many things to solve
looking for the answers all along the walk.
On the highest mountains, in the middle of the plains,
somewhere between valleys, under the sun or in the rain,
I try to find myself, I try to find who I am.
Buen camino peregrino
hope to see you on my way
we got 500 miles to go on the road to Santiago
This is the first time that I’m really feeling free
delivered from all the burdens granted by society.
Crossing that many people who are thinking just like me
makes me feel like I am a part of a great big family.
I came to find some peace and what I found is love.
Buen camino peregrino
hope to see you on my way
we got 500 miles to go on the road to Santiago
Whatever you came for
Whatever is the goal
Lighten your backpack
and take it step by step
And I walk and I walk and I walk and I walk and I walk
And I walk and I walk and I walk and I walk and I walk
And I walk and I walk and I walk and I walk and I walk
And I walk and I walk and I walk and I walk and I walk
Buen camino peregrino
nice to meet you on my way
we got 500 miles to go
on our road to Santiago
Morning sun
I have a few of my houseplants lined up on the the window sill of my south-facing picture window. Even though we have a porch roof that shades this window part of the year, the low winter sun peeks through now for much of the day. One of my morning rituals is to stand by the window soaking up the morning sun while my coffee brews. I love the way the sunlight dances off the leaves and flowers in the morning light.
Winter Bulbs – Amaryllis Take Two
My second amaryllis is finally starting to open up! It is a red variety and, at first, struggled to get going. I potted it at the same time as my pink variety that bloomed long ago but is now sending up a second flower stalk!
Cinque Terre Hiking Trip Day 7
October 18, 2025 – Sarzana, Fosdinovo Castle and a Tuscan Winery
Our final full day on this Road Scholar tour, we take a break from hiking and visit some historical sites in Tuscany. Our first stop was the medieval town of Sarzana. Early records indicate that the town was founded around the year 1084 after starting as a fortress in the mid-900’s. Changing hands over the years since, it landed under Genoa authority in the 1500’s. We visited the “old town” section of the city where evidence of medieval architecture still exists in the form of walls, cathedrals and other buildings.
The above museum is housed in a former oratory and according to reviews I saw online it “consists of two floors and features liturgical vestments, relics, and a significant collection of seventeenth-century painter Domenico Fiasella’s canvases.” Too bad we did not have time to explore!
Our first main stop on our walking tour of the old town was the Fortezza Firmafede, also referred to as La Cittadella. The original military fortification was destroyed in the late1400’s by the Florentines and later rebuilt under the Republic of Genoa.
Our city tour guide led us next to the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta. Built in the Romanesque-Gothic style, it was constructed from the early 1200’s to the late 1400’s.
The intricate wood ceiling was carved in the 1600’s by the artist Pietro Giambelli.
The cathedral is also home to the Cross of Master Guglielmo or Cross of Sarzana – dating to 1138. It is known as the oldest painted Tuscan crucifix and was done on canvas that was stretched onto a cross made of chestnut. It has undergone some restoration over the years.
More interior architecture:
We had some free time to wander around the center of the old town and explore. It had a vibrant, bustling feel and there was even a carousel!
I popped into another church while wandering around the city – Pieve di Sant’Andrea. It was built in the 10th and 11th centuries. It has a simpler design on the interior and much more to my liking – as it gives a more restful, unopposing vibe.
One of the historical facts that most intrigued me about Sarzana is its importance as a stopping point along the Via Francigena. The Via Francigena is an ancient pilgrimage route that linked Canterbury, England to Rome and Santa Maria di Leuca. As a person who has completed to Camino pilgrimages in Europe, I felt honored to walk along this path in the center of the old town.
The restaurant where we had lunch reservations does not typically open for lunch but we were special guests and had the place all to ourselves. We entered the Il Loggiato restaurant via the ground floor pasticceria (Italian bakery) and proceeded to the second floor where the restaurant is located. On the way, we passed by some mouth-watering pastries! Yum!!
The ceiling on the ground floor was so beautiful!
The second floor restaurant was divided into multiple small rooms – each loaded with memorabilia, antiques and folk art. It was so much fun to wander around while we waited to be served.
Our dining room was elegantly set up and we really felt like very special guests!
Our meal was multi-coursed, wonderfully presented and tasted as good as it looked. Truly a treat!
On the way out, we were led through the outside dining area and down the stairs that lead to the main entrance for the restaurant when it is normally open. What a fantastic experience!
After lunch we headed out of the old town to rendezvous with our coach that would take us further into Tuscany to the medieval castle of Fosdinovo. It was a beautiful drive up into the ancient hilltop town of Fosdinovo. The castle was and still is owned by the Malaspina family and dates to the 12th century. It is now a tourist attraction and hosts private events as well as a bed and breakfast. Imagine being able to stay overnight in a medieval castle!
There’s a legend that the ghost of Bianca Maria Aloisia Malaspina roams the halls of the castle. She was a noblewoman who fell in love with a stable boy and refused an arranged marriage. Her punishment was to be walled up alive in a secluded room and left to die.
Photographs of the interior of the castle:
As we walked along the outside of the castle perimeter up high, we were rewarded with great views – all the way to the Ligurian Sea!
Our stops in Sarzana and Fosdinovo constituted what seemed like a full day of touring. However, our day was not done!! We abandoned our motorcoach after Fosdinovo and continued via several smaller vans to our final destination of the day – the family-run vineyard and winery Lorieri on the Podere Scurtarola estate. It was a winding, scary ride on narrow, steep dirt roads to the hilltop winery! Here we toured the vineyard and winery and were treated to a wonderful wine tasting and meal.
Upon arrival, our host engaged us with some of the history of the vineyard which has been in the family for over 150 years. We listened as he explained the difficult task of growing and harvesting grapes on such steep terrain – often up to a slope of 70-80%.
As we walked through the vineyard, he explained that they use no chemical or organic fertilizer or pest control. Instead, they rely on the rich soil and plantings of native species that grow in harmony with the grapes – eventually cutting the grasses and perennials and leaving it to feed the soil.
Vermentino is a popular light-skinned grape variety grown in Tuscany and Liguria and produces a light-bodied, dry white wine with citrus and herbal characteristics often referred to as the generic name Candia dei Colli Apuani. This designation means the wines come from the northern Tuscan towns of Massa, Carrara and Montignoso. Our host, Pier Paolo Lorieri, co-authored one of the leading authoritative books on the history and cultivation of this variety – Vermentino, the Grape Variety of Climate Change.
He also explained to us his collaboration with the University of Florence’s agricultural division over the years that led to innovations in technology to make it easier to harvest these grapes on the steep slopes. Our host was very informative and extremely entertaining with his easy manner and enthusiasm for his trade.
We were treated to a peek at the storage area and wine-making room that sits on the bottom floor and is partially underground to take advantage of the naturally cooler temperatures.
As we came around to the upper floor where the restaurant and wine-tasting is conducted, the sun was just about to set over the Ligurain Sea. I suspect our host timed this perfectly!
Our wine-tasting was comprised of several varieties produced here on the farm – including a little-known wine local to this region called Vermentino Nero. The wines were paired with local dishes cooked in a wood-fired oven and over a wood-burning fireplace – focaccias, local cheeses, vegetables and beef.
With all that wine and food, it is not surprising that many of us napped on the 2.5 hour ride back to Le Grazie and our hotel!!
I was very sad to see this hiking trip come to a close. It absolutely rates right up there as one of the best experiences of my life. My fellow travelers were engaging and our licensed tour guides were informative and wildly entertaining. The weather was perfect, the scenery breathtaking and the accommodations comfortable and convenient.
Missing the Desert…
While I intentionally chose to spend the winter in Vermont this year for multiple reasons, I am still longing for the desert! In the winter of 2022, we spent some time boondocking in the KOFA National Wildlife Refuge located between Quartzite and Yuma in Arizona. I remember my time there as one of peaceful tranquility – enveloped in a blanket of contentment and inner calm. It was a quiet place surrounded by nature and I am eternally grateful for the opportunity to experience this magical place and share it with the wildlife protected here.
Winter Fog
I love the way the fog envelops the landscape on these moisture-laden winter mornings – the frozen droplets of water masquerading as little jewels clinging to the branches of our front yard oak tree.
Cinque Terre Hiking Trip – Day 6
October 17, 2025 – Riomaggiore to Porto Venere
Today is our last day of hiking in the Cinque Terre. The schedule will vary depending on individual choices. The hike today is split up into two sections – a morning hike from Riomaggiore to the small hamlet of Campiglia – and – an afternoon hike from Campiglia to Porto Venere. The total hiking distance is about 7.5 miles, our longest trek of the trip. The morning hike is rated as moderate while the afternoon portion is listed as challenging due to the steep decline over less stable trail conditions.
For those who prefer to skip the afternoon hike, our private vans will pick them up in Campiglia and transport them to Le Grazie where they have free time to explore or shop in nearby Porto Venere. I chose to complete the whole hike and keep walking!
In the morning, our motor coach dropped us off at the trailhead that leads to the Santuario di Nostra Signora di Montenero. From this spot, it is a steep climb via stone steps (what else!) up to the santuary.
The views looking back towards the Ligurian Sea were spectacular as were the terraced vineyards.
Once we reached the top and the Sanctuary of Montenero, we took a water break and had a chance to take some photographs.
The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Montenero dates to the 1300’s and is only accessible via foot. It is a Catholic Church and monastery and is part of the “route of the sanctuaries” that starts in Monterosso at Our Lady of Soviore church and passes by the sanctuaries of Our Lady of Grace and Our Lady of Reggio in Vernazza before leading to the Shrine of Our Lady of Health in Volastra and, finally, to Our Lady of Montenero.
The next portion of the hike took us through more vineyards, forest trails and a short, steep section before reaching the small settlement of Campiglia.
One of the coolest parts of this hike was passing by some stone masons who were working on rebuilding part of a terrace wall. They are true artists!!
We passed by an ancient church on the way to our next stop – a restaurant perched high up on the hills overlooking the sea.
There was a private property adjacent to the trail here that appears to be an organic farm and vineyard called Stella Di Lemmen. What a beautiful spot for a farm!
The trail continued with gentle ups and downs until we reached the restaurant where we could take a restroom break and enjoy a small snack or drink. The restaurant is called the Colle Del Telegrafo and it was a pleasant place to hang out for a spell.
With a snack and bathroom break completed, we continued on to Campiglia, where we would eat lunch and the group would split up – some preferring to return to Porto Venere and some continuing on for an afternoon of hiking. Our hotel packed us a picnic lunch so we did not have to purchase lunch in Campiglia although there were a couple of places to grab a bite to eat in this small village.
Some scenes on the trail from the restaurant to Campiglia:
Our regular hiking guide Boris had to take the day off, so we had a new-to-us guide for our last day of hiking. She stopped below to explain to us why we kept seeing all these feathers on the forested trail here. Apparently, there is a popular “bird shooting” sport in parts of Italy and, although it is not permitted in the Cinque Terre National Park, the section of the trail we were now on is outside the park. We were seeing the remnants of this sport in the form of feathers by the side of the trail.
Once we arrived in Campiglia, it was time to eat our picnic lunch and chill for a bit in preparation for our afternoon hike. It is a sweet little village at the end of the road!
We were able to use the restroom facilities at this nice restaurant with loads of outdoor seating.
I did pop into a small market just to see what they were selling and I sort of wish I had gotten lunch here!!
It was time to continue our walk and there was much talk about how steep and uneven the trail would be between here and our destination of Porto Venere. We said goodbye to those who were boarding the vans back to town and they wished us well on our challenging hike. It really was not much different than trails I’ve hiked back here – some rocky parts with loose stone, narrow and uneven dirt paths and steep descents – definitely not as challenging as I expected. The views descending down into Porto Venere were stunning!!
Below is an example of the “loose” rock we had to manuveur on our way down.
The final part of our hike brought us around the Castello Doria and into the heart of the town of Porto Venere.
And the last stone steps of the whole trip – I think, I hope?!
The next day is our last of the trip and it will be a rest day and a time to do some sightseeing in Tuscany – visiting the historic city of Sarzana, the medieval Fosdinovo Castle and a working vineyard high up in the hills of Tuscany. Until then!
Winter Bulbs – Amaryllis
It’s been a few years since I started winter bulbs indoors. It’s such an fun, effortless way to enjoy flowers blooming in the dead of winter! And, so very rewarding!!
I bought 2 amaryllis bulbs but only one is blooming. The other bulb sat dormant until a couple of days ago. I took it out of its pot to examine the roots to see why it did not keep pace with the one above. There were 2 new roots emerging from the bottom of the bulb so I repotted it and watered it well and it finally started to grow. So, I will hopefully have another amaryllis in flower later on! While not planned – it is actually nice to have a “staggered” bloom time!
Another view of the same amaryllis with a different background.
Curling Beech Leaves
There are loads of young beech trees in our deciduous Vermont forest. The curling, marcescent leaves catch the sun in a delightful way with patterns of light and shade. I love photographing them. Notice the buds – years ago as a student of landscape design – my professor (who taught plant identification) would give us clues that we could use to help us identify plants. I will always remember his “clue” for identifying beech trees in winter – look for the “cigar-shaped” buds. Funny the things you recall from the past!
Winter Walk
I pass by this old, abandoned sugar house on my daily walks. The current owner of the property has placed some colorful birdhouses on the building – adding a touch of color to an otherwise monochromatic landscape.
Lynn Amber - Travel & Photography 