Lynn Amber - Travel & Photography
sharing my thoughts through words and images
Cinque Terre Hiking Trip Day 7
October 18, 2025 – Sarzana, Fosdinovo Castle and a Tuscan Winery
Our final full day on this Road Scholar tour, we take a break from hiking and visit some historical sites in Tuscany. Our first stop was the medieval town of Sarzana. Early records indicate that the town was founded around the year 1084 after starting as a fortress in the mid-900’s. Changing hands over the years since, it landed under Genoa authority in the 1500’s. We visited the “old town” section of the city where evidence of medieval architecture still exists in the form of walls, cathedrals and other buildings.
The above museum is housed in a former oratory and according to reviews I saw online it “consists of two floors and features liturgical vestments, relics, and a significant collection of seventeenth-century painter Domenico Fiasella’s canvases.” Too bad we did not have time to explore!
Our first main stop on our walking tour of the old town was the Fortezza Firmafede, also referred to as La Cittadella. The original military fortification was destroyed in the late1400’s by the Florentines and later rebuilt under the Republic of Genoa.
Our city tour guide led us next to the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta. Built in the Romanesque-Gothic style, it was constructed from the early 1200’s to the late 1400’s.
The intricate wood ceiling was carved in the 1600’s by the artist Pietro Giambelli.
The cathedral is also home to the Cross of Master Guglielmo or Cross of Sarzana – dating to 1138. It is known as the oldest painted Tuscan crucifix and was done on canvas that was stretched onto a cross made of chestnut. It has undergone some restoration over the years.
More interior architecture:
We had some free time to wander around the center of the old town and explore. It had a vibrant, bustling feel and there was even a carousel!
I popped into another church while wandering around the city – Pieve di Sant’Andrea. It was built in the 10th and 11th centuries. It has a simpler design on the interior and much more to my liking – as it gives a more restful, unopposing vibe.
One of the historical facts that most intrigued me about Sarzana is its importance as a stopping point along the Via Francigena. The Via Francigena is an ancient pilgrimage route that linked Canterbury, England to Rome and Santa Maria di Leuca. As a person who has completed to Camino pilgrimages in Europe, I felt honored to walk along this path in the center of the old town.
The restaurant where we had lunch reservations does not typically open for lunch but we were special guests and had the place all to ourselves. We entered the Il Loggiato restaurant via the ground floor pasticceria (Italian bakery) and proceeded to the second floor where the restaurant is located. On the way, we passed by some mouth-watering pastries! Yum!!
The ceiling on the ground floor was so beautiful!
The second floor restaurant was divided into multiple small rooms – each loaded with memorabilia, antiques and folk art. It was so much fun to wander around while we waited to be served.
Our dining room was elegantly set up and we really felt like very special guests!
Our meal was multi-coursed, wonderfully presented and tasted as good as it looked. Truly a treat!
On the way out, we were led through the outside dining area and down the stairs that lead to the main entrance for the restaurant when it is normally open. What a fantastic experience!
After lunch we headed out of the old town to rendezvous with our coach that would take us further into Tuscany to the medieval castle of Fosdinovo. It was a beautiful drive up into the ancient hilltop town of Fosdinovo. The castle was and still is owned by the Malaspina family and dates to the 12th century. It is now a tourist attraction and hosts private events as well as a bed and breakfast. Imagine being able to stay overnight in a medieval castle!
There’s a legend that the ghost of Bianca Maria Aloisia Malaspina roams the halls of the castle. She was a noblewoman who fell in love with a stable boy and refused an arranged marriage. Her punishment was to be walled up alive in a secluded room and left to die.
Photographs of the interior of the castle:
As we walked along the outside of the castle perimeter up high, we were rewarded with great views – all the way to the Ligurian Sea!
Our stops in Sarzana and Fosdinovo constituted what seemed like a full day of touring. However, our day was not done!! We abandoned our motorcoach after Fosdinovo and continued via several smaller vans to our final destination of the day – the family-run vineyard and winery Lorieri on the Podere Scurtarola estate. It was a winding, scary ride on narrow, steep dirt roads to the hilltop winery! Here we toured the vineyard and winery and were treated to a wonderful wine tasting and meal.
Upon arrival, our host engaged us with some of the history of the vineyard which has been in the family for over 150 years. We listened as he explained the difficult task of growing and harvesting grapes on such steep terrain – often up to a slope of 70-80%.
As we walked through the vineyard, he explained that they use no chemical or organic fertilizer or pest control. Instead, they rely on the rich soil and plantings of native species that grow in harmony with the grapes – eventually cutting the grasses and perennials and leaving it to feed the soil.
Vermentino is a popular light-skinned grape variety grown in Tuscany and Liguria and produces a light-bodied, dry white wine with citrus and herbal characteristics often referred to as the generic name Candia dei Colli Apuani. This designation means the wines come from the northern Tuscan towns of Massa, Carrara and Montignoso. Our host, Pier Paolo Lorieri, co-authored one of the leading authoritative books on the history and cultivation of this variety – Vermentino, the Grape Variety of Climate Change.
He also explained to us his collaboration with the University of Florence’s agricultural division over the years that led to innovations in technology to make it easier to harvest these grapes on the steep slopes. Our host was very informative and extremely entertaining with his easy manner and enthusiasm for his trade.
We were treated to a peek at the storage area and wine-making room that sits on the bottom floor and is partially underground to take advantage of the naturally cooler temperatures.
As we came around to the upper floor where the restaurant and wine-tasting is conducted, the sun was just about to set over the Ligurain Sea. I suspect our host timed this perfectly!
Our wine-tasting was comprised of several varieties produced here on the farm – including a little-known wine local to this region called Vermentino Nero. The wines were paired with local dishes cooked in a wood-fired oven and over a wood-burning fireplace – focaccias, local cheeses, vegetables and beef.
With all that wine and food, it is not surprising that many of us napped on the 2.5 hour ride back to Le Grazie and our hotel!!
I was very sad to see this hiking trip come to a close. It absolutely rates right up there as one of the best experiences of my life. My fellow travelers were engaging and our licensed tour guides were informative and wildly entertaining. The weather was perfect, the scenery breathtaking and the accommodations comfortable and convenient.
Missing the Desert…
While I intentionally chose to spend the winter in Vermont this year for multiple reasons, I am still longing for the desert! In the winter of 2022, we spent some time boondocking in the KOFA National Wildlife Refuge located between Quartzite and Yuma in Arizona. I remember my time there as one of peaceful tranquility – enveloped in a blanket of contentment and inner calm. It was a quiet place surrounded by nature and I am eternally grateful for the opportunity to experience this magical place and share it with the wildlife protected here.
Winter Fog
I love the way the fog envelops the landscape on these moisture-laden winter mornings – the frozen droplets of water masquerading as little jewels clinging to the branches of our front yard oak tree.
Cinque Terre Hiking Trip – Day 6
October 17, 2025 – Riomaggiore to Porto Venere
Today is our last day of hiking in the Cinque Terre. The schedule will vary depending on individual choices. The hike today is split up into two sections – a morning hike from Riomaggiore to the small hamlet of Campiglia – and – an afternoon hike from Campiglia to Porto Venere. The total hiking distance is about 7.5 miles, our longest trek of the trip. The morning hike is rated as moderate while the afternoon portion is listed as challenging due to the steep decline over less stable trail conditions.
For those who prefer to skip the afternoon hike, our private vans will pick them up in Campiglia and transport them to Le Grazie where they have free time to explore or shop in nearby Porto Venere. I chose to complete the whole hike and keep walking!
In the morning, our motor coach dropped us off at the trailhead that leads to the Santuario di Nostra Signora di Montenero. From this spot, it is a steep climb via stone steps (what else!) up to the santuary.
The views looking back towards the Ligurian Sea were spectacular as were the terraced vineyards.
Once we reached the top and the Sanctuary of Montenero, we took a water break and had a chance to take some photographs.
The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Montenero dates to the 1300’s and is only accessible via foot. It is a Catholic Church and monastery and is part of the “route of the sanctuaries” that starts in Monterosso at Our Lady of Soviore church and passes by the sanctuaries of Our Lady of Grace and Our Lady of Reggio in Vernazza before leading to the Shrine of Our Lady of Health in Volastra and, finally, to Our Lady of Montenero.
The next portion of the hike took us through more vineyards, forest trails and a short, steep section before reaching the small settlement of Campiglia.
One of the coolest parts of this hike was passing by some stone masons who were working on rebuilding part of a terrace wall. They are true artists!!
We passed by an ancient church on the way to our next stop – a restaurant perched high up on the hills overlooking the sea.
There was a private property adjacent to the trail here that appears to be an organic farm and vineyard called Stella Di Lemmen. What a beautiful spot for a farm!
The trail continued with gentle ups and downs until we reached the restaurant where we could take a restroom break and enjoy a small snack or drink. The restaurant is called the Colle Del Telegrafo and it was a pleasant place to hang out for a spell.
With a snack and bathroom break completed, we continued on to Campiglia, where we would eat lunch and the group would split up – some preferring to return to Porto Venere and some continuing on for an afternoon of hiking. Our hotel packed us a picnic lunch so we did not have to purchase lunch in Campiglia although there were a couple of places to grab a bite to eat in this small village.
Some scenes on the trail from the restaurant to Campiglia:
Our regular hiking guide Boris had to take the day off, so we had a new-to-us guide for our last day of hiking. She stopped below to explain to us why we kept seeing all these feathers on the forested trail here. Apparently, there is a popular “bird shooting” sport in parts of Italy and, although it is not permitted in the Cinque Terre National Park, the section of the trail we were now on is outside the park. We were seeing the remnants of this sport in the form of feathers by the side of the trail.
Once we arrived in Campiglia, it was time to eat our picnic lunch and chill for a bit in preparation for our afternoon hike. It is a sweet little village at the end of the road!
We were able to use the restroom facilities at this nice restaurant with loads of outdoor seating.
I did pop into a small market just to see what they were selling and I sort of wish I had gotten lunch here!!
It was time to continue our walk and there was much talk about how steep and uneven the trail would be between here and our destination of Porto Venere. We said goodbye to those who were boarding the vans back to town and they wished us well on our challenging hike. It really was not much different than trails I’ve hiked back here – some rocky parts with loose stone, narrow and uneven dirt paths and steep descents – definitely not as challenging as I expected. The views descending down into Porto Venere were stunning!!
Below is an example of the “loose” rock we had to manuveur on our way down.
The final part of our hike brought us around the Castello Doria and into the heart of the town of Porto Venere.
And the last stone steps of the whole trip – I think, I hope?!
The next day is our last of the trip and it will be a rest day and a time to do some sightseeing in Tuscany – visiting the historic city of Sarzana, the medieval Fosdinovo Castle and a working vineyard high up in the hills of Tuscany. Until then!
Winter Bulbs – Amaryllis
It’s been a few years since I started winter bulbs indoors. It’s such an fun, effortless way to enjoy flowers blooming in the dead of winter! And, so very rewarding!!
I bought 2 amaryllis bulbs but only one is blooming. The other bulb sat dormant until a couple of days ago. I took it out of its pot to examine the roots to see why it did not keep pace with the one above. There were 2 new roots emerging from the bottom of the bulb so I repotted it and watered it well and it finally started to grow. So, I will hopefully have another amaryllis in flower later on! While not planned – it is actually nice to have a “staggered” bloom time!
Another view of the same amaryllis with a different background.
Curling Beech Leaves
There are loads of young beech trees in our deciduous Vermont forest. The curling, marcescent leaves catch the sun in a delightful way with patterns of light and shade. I love photographing them. Notice the buds – years ago as a student of landscape design – my professor (who taught plant identification) would give us clues that we could use to help us identify plants. I will always remember his “clue” for identifying beech trees in winter – look for the “cigar-shaped” buds. Funny the things you recall from the past!
Winter Walk
I pass by this old, abandoned sugar house on my daily walks. The current owner of the property has placed some colorful birdhouses on the building – adding a touch of color to an otherwise monochromatic landscape.
Cinque Terre Hiking Trip – Day 5
October 16, 2025 – Manarola to Corniglia
Today, we find ourselves back on the coastline of the Cinque Terre hiking a more moderately challenging trail between Manarola and Corniglia. The hike is described as a 4-mile distance between Manarola and Corniglia via the sister village of Volastra. With an elevation gain and loss of 1200′ and many very steep steps to navigate, this would be our most challenging day so far.
We boarded our motorcoach in Le Grazie for the short ride to Manarola where we disembarked to begin our walk. As with Riomaggiore, Vernazza and Monterosso, the main street has a river running underneath which was paved over following WWII. Before that, rustic stone bridges connected the two sections of town that climbed the steep hillside and were separated by the river.
Our day started with a leisurely walk through the center of town. It was still early in the day but already the tourist crowds were starting to line the streets. As with the other Cinque Terre villages, Manarola is a colorful, vibrant space.
We eventually came to the Piazza Capellini which is a relatively new square with a colorful mosaic as its centerpiece. It is one of very few flat spaces in the town and our guide said it is often used by school children to play soccer.
Along one of the streets, a delightful little fish vendor was pulled up selling the fresh catch of the day. I’ve never seen this before and it sure looked good!
Eventually, the waterfront appeared and we could see the small breakwater that was built to shelter the tiny harbor. There is a large crane that exists for lowering boats into the water and pulling them out.
From parts of the town, I could see the opposite hillside where the trails lead out of the town and towards Volastra. It gave me a hint of what was to come! Steps, steps and more steps!!
To access the trail leading to Volastra, we climbed out of the village via the Manarola Vineyard Trail that led past the cemetery and afforded us beautiful views of the town from above.
On our climb out of Manarola, we passed by a nice little restaurant overlooking the village, a park with an interesting statue commemorating the wine industry and a cemetery.
We reached the point where the trail to Volastra veered off the vineyard trail and the step climbing began! Some of our hiking group took the option to bypass this section of the trail due to the steepness and tall risers of the stone steps. They would meet up with us in Volastra – at the top of the climb.
It is said that the hillsides between Manarola and Corniglia have the best, well-maintained vineyards of the region and that was evident from the views we had of the terraces as we walked through them.
Our guide told us that there would be a steep, stone step ascent initially followed by a level area and then more steep steps before reaching Volastra. We then took a break just before the second climb so we could wait for others to catch up and take a sip of water.
I could not remember if the harder of the two steep climbs was before us or behind us. I didn’t think the section we had just done was as hard as implied at the start of the hike. Our guide commented as we started the second climb that the steps were not as steep on this section and we had completed the hardest part. I exclaimed that I thought the hardest climb was yet to come and was relieved and surprised that it was indeed behind us – which elicited an amused chuckle from our guide!
Once we reached Volastra, we took a short break, filled up our water bottles at the town fountain and enjoyed a relatively level hike before our final descent into Corniglia.
The next part of the hike was indeed one of the prettiest stretches when compared to all of our hikes. It was a dirt path through vineyards – at times, with commanding views of the coastline.
I noticed more olive trees growing on the higher elevations along the coast and wondered about the harvest. Olives are typically harvested from September through November in Italy – depending on the location. I looked for olives on these trees and found very few and asked one of our guides if they had already been harvested. I was told that the olive trees have been under stress from environmental factors and that it was not a good year for them. In Tuscany, many olive orchards are being abandoned due to the high cost of procucing olive oil versus the return. The topography of Tuscany limits the ability to mechanize much of the process and reduces profits making them less competitive globally.
Much of the trail was along the coast and afforded us some fantastic views of the steep cliffs and coastal waters.
The three photos below illustrate the incredible terraces and vineyards in this area. It is still very much a labor intensive industry.
Since Boris has guided these hiking tours for many years, he knows just the right spot for a great photo opportunity! He gives us a warning and schedules our breaks at these points. Clever! Below is one such location – a view down to Corniglia framed by trees in the foreground.
We stopped at the point where the trail starts its descent into Corniglia and Boris explained to us what the numbers on the trail signs meant. I had assumed that the numbers opposite the destinations on the signs were distances. That’s usually how it works, right? But it seemed off. He told us that the numbers represented time not distance. So, according to the sign below, Volastra was 1/2 hour behind us and Corniglia was 1 hour ahead of us. The 3-digit number on the sign “586” represents the trail itself which are represented by numbers in this region.
The descent was long and uneventful and we arrived in Corniglia with time to explore and enjoy an independent lunch. Of course, I sought out a focaccia restaurant!! What else??
We had some time before heading to the train station to check out the local church – Chiesa Di San Pietro. It looked fairly simple in architectural design from the outside yet the inside was surprisingly ornate.
Corniglia is the smallest of the 5 villages and, as you will recall, is the least accessible due to the location of the train station. When it was time to catch our train back to Le Spezia and rendezvous with our motor coach that would return us to the hotel in Le Grazie, we had to walk from the town center of Corniglia down a steep 400-step walkway to the train station.
It was a beautiful day for a hike, and we returned to our hotel in time to clean up and enjoy a lecture about the nickname Gulf of Poets – as the Gulf of La Spezia is often called. In the early 19th century, many famous poets came to call this area home for a spell and gained inspiration from the dramatic landscape inclulding: Percy Bysshe Shelley and Mary Shelley, Lord George Byron, John Keats and Italian poet Giosuè Carducci. I found the following quote from one of Lord Byron’s works that seems to echo the feeling of this region although not expressly written for here.
“There is a pleasure in the pathless woods,
There is a rapture on the lonely shore,
There is society, where none intrudes,
By the deep Sea, and music in its roar:
I love not Man the less, but Nature more,
From these our interviews, in which I steal
From all I may be, or have been before,
To mingle with the Universe, and feel
What I can ne’er express, yet cannot all conceal.”
― Lord Byron
After our lecture, we boarded vans that took us back to Porto Venere for dinner in the Ristorante Il Timone. Another wonderful, satisfying day in the Cinque Terre!
Orchid in Morning Light
Morning Light
Sipping warm coffee
The morning light drifting in
Orchid petals glow.
~Lynn Thomas Amber
Cinque Terre Hiking Trip – Day 4
October 15, 2025 – Day 4 – Hiking Trip to Casa Del Vergheto from Colonnata
Today, we would be taking a break from the Cinque Terre coastline. Our adventure started with a 2-hour motor coach trip to the small village of Colonnata high up in the Apuan Alps in Northern Tuscany. Driving the narrow, winding road that leads from Carrara to Colonnata is a challenge – and driving it in a large motor coach is insane! It was quite the ride as a passenger and kudos to our bus driver for his expert driving skills!
We reached Colonnata and had a few minutes to use the restroom facilities at a small cafe before heading off on our hike to the abandoned village of Case del Vergheto.
The hike today would take us through mostly forested trails with an abundance of chestnut trees. The 3-mile roundtrip, 1,000 foot elevation gain trail was rated as easy to moderate with the steepest section near the top. We started the hike on pavement from the village and quickly found ourselves on a rocky, dirt trail winding through the forest. It was a lovely, shaded hike!
I was so surprised to see a familiar “houseplant” growing wild along the side of the trail! I’m always fascinated by plants that must remain indoors in my climate but thrive in the outdoors elsewhere.
We learned along the hike through our guide Boris that our destination – Case Del Vergheto – was at one time a settlement for quarrymen – or “cavatore”. The village was founded so as to be close to the mountain top marble quarries. It was later abandoned as access to the quarries improved. During World War II, the abandoned village was a refuge for resistance fighters against the German and Italian facist regimes. Part way up the trail, our two fearless leaders, Boris and Leonardo, serenaded us with their rendition of “Bella Ciao” – a popular Italian resistance song. While the origin of the song remains controversial, it is widely accepted that it had its beginnings in the early 1900’s as a protest by women who worked the rice patty fields in Northern Italy. Later, it became a symbol of anti-fascist sentiments during and after WWII.
At a trail junction near the top, we entered a small clearing bordered by large, very old chestnut trees. The presence of the chestnut tree in Northern Tuscany dates to the Roman Empire and was considered a major source of sustenance for the residents. Chestnuts were dry-smoked for storage and ground into flour.
As we approached Case Del Vergheto, the forest opened up and the spectacular views of the mountains greeted us.
The abandoned village is comprised of a handful of stone buildings with slate or tile roofs – all in what I would call a state of “arrested decay”. There is one exception – a somewhat restored house that is privately owned as a vacation home.
The gate below leads to the privately owned house that is still used today as a part-time residence. How would you like that view everyday??!!
We took a break in the village and rested while Boris entertained us with a narrative about the very difficult life of a quarryman. It was dangerous work and, back in the day, the marble was transported in large blocks from the mountain tops on tracks via large, wooden sleds called lizza. Often, these sleds were pulled with oxen and required a minimum of 8 men to aid in manuvuering them down the steep slopes.
Some of the marble deposits visible from Case Del Vergheto have been in continuous operation since the Roman Empire. Wow – just wow! The images below were taken from the village looking towards the quarries.
After exploring the small village and hearing about some of the history of the quarries, we hiked back down to Colonnata where we enjoyed lunch at the Ristorante Vernanzio and had some free time to explore this town rich with ancient history.
The town got its name from the Latin word “columna” (for the columns of marble quarried) and was founded around 40 B.C. as a “worker” village for the labor required to extract the Carrara marble from the surrounding mountains. It is said that Michelangelo was a frequent visitor to Colonnata and hand-picked marble for his statues. The marble that was used to carve the Statue of David came from the quarries surrounding this area.
We indulged in a multi-course lunch that included one of the signature foods of Colonnata – lardo di Colonnata – a cured pork fat. The pork fatback is cured in marble “barrels” with a variety of herbs and spices for up to 6 months. It is often then cut into thin strips – called salumi – and used as a spread for bread. We were treated to this delicacy as one of the appetizer portions. The thought of eating lardo kind of grossed me out at first but I have to admit that it was quite tasty spread on a piece of warm, homemade bread!
After lunch, we wandered around the small village of Colonnata and took in some sights. Outside of the San Bartolomeo Church, there is a memorial to the quarrymen who toiled in this town and the surrounding quarries. The marble panels depict life as a quarryman and the statue “Christ of the quarrymen” pays tribute to all the quarrymen who lost their lives due to this dangerous work.
The interior of the San Bartolomeo Church, which dates to the 16th century is, of course, a showcase for the local marble.
After touring the church, we had time to visit one of the local gift shops for a souvenir. I’m not one to spend much money on souvenirs. My photographs are usually my way of remembering the places I’ve traveled. But, I was so impressed by the quarries and the stories of those quarrymen who worked here. I ended up with a small piece of Carrara marble – in the simple shape of a pear with a gold stem and leaf. It sits on my kitchen window shelf above the sink and is my daily reminder of the beauty that is Tuscany and the Cinque Terre region.
When we got back to the hotel in Le Grazie that night, dinner was on our own either in Le Grazie or Porto Venere. I had originally planned on accompanying 3 other tour members to a restaurant in Porto Venere. But, I was still so full from the multi-course lunch and knew the next day’s hike would be more strenuous – so I opted out and enjoyed a restful, quiet evening in Le Grazie just taking a slow walk around town and retiring early for the night. A beautiful day indeed!
Lynn Amber - Travel & Photography 