Le Puy Camino – via Podiensis: Estaing to Golinhac

April 11 and April 12, 2023

As I continued my walk along the Lot River towards Estaing, the picturesque city exploded into view with the 15th-century Château d’Estaing rising up above the other buildings – taking center stage. As I approached the bridge that crosses the Lot River into the village, I noticed that the GR65 takes a left turn here instead of going right over the bridge and into the town. I will remember that for tomorrow’s hike!

The hotel I booked accommodations for this night could not have been easier to find! It was located just across the street from the bridge as I entered the town. Since it was about the time when I should be able to check in, I approached the door to the hotel but found it locked with a note that stated it would not re-open until 5pm. I thought this was unusual since it was also a restaurant and bar. Most accommodations also allowed check-ins starting at 3pm. I walked around the town for a bit and noticed all other restaurants and outdoor cafes were open which added to my concern. My arrival at this establishment only got weirder!

When I walked back to the hotel, it was still dark inside and I wandered around the outside of the building to see if there was another entrance. I must have had a concerned look on my face because a female passer-by stopped and asked if I needed assistance. I explained my predicament and she walked up to the front door of the hotel and pressed a bell (that I had not noticed before now). A few minutes later, a woman appeared walking down the inside stairs. She seemed a bit frazzled (I suspect we woke her up) but let me in and I told her I had a reservation. At first, she seemed confused. She opened a reservation book and asked again what my name was. It turns out that in making the reservations over the phone, they had misinterpreted what my name was and had a different version of my name written down. We determined that I was indeed the person with the reservation after a few minutes and she agreed to let me check-in. 

I asked about our additional luggage that should have been delivered and she led me to a building several doors down from the hotel where the baggage was stashed. That also seemed odd. But, I was able to check in so I was happy. We were located on the third floor and had a very nicely appointed (albeit old-fashioned) room with a small balcony overlooking the Lot River. At 77.50 euros demi-pension each for the night, it was expected that the room and dinner should be exceptional! All of the other cheaper accommodations in town were booked which forced us to stay here. The other very odd observation I made was that we were the only guests in this hotel. As we ascended the stairs to our room, there were linens and such scattered in the hallways and some corridors were blocked off. I chose not to think about why this was – our room was nice and that’s all that mattered to me! I did wonder how dinner would be??

As soon as I got settled in the room, I washed out some clothes and set up a clothesline on the balcony. The sun was shining and I was sure my clothes would dry nicely even with though we were on the backside of the afternoon.

After showering and a change of clothes, I decided to explore the town. In particular, I was looking for the local pharmacy and also an épicerie where I could pick up items for the next day’s walk. At the pharmacy, my goal was to find a small pair of scissors and some dental floss for Susan. I was successful! I also purchased some extra band-aids since I was still being cautious and bandaging my little toe to prevent the blister from returning.

Estaing is one of the prettiest towns along our route. The village is a member of an organization that supports tourism in the many small rural towns in France – Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. There is a rigorous process involved in being considered for this designation so visitors can be assured that a village with this label is worthy.  

The famed 11th century Château d’Estaing dominates the skyline and was purchased in 2005 by a former French president, Valéry Giscard, and his extended family. Prior to his death in 2020, he set up a foundation that would allow for the maintenance and preservation of this medieval castle. As I walked along the narrow streets, I could imagine what it must have been like to live here in medieval times.

After visiting the pharmacy and scoping out the épicerie, I made a detour on one of the side streets to visit the 15th century church – L’église Saint-Fleuret. The church is named for the saint who supposedly brought Christianity to Estaing back in the year 621. At the base of the stairs leading up to the entrance to the church, there is a really cool cobblestone mosaic with a heart outlined in dark stones.

I headed back to the hotel after visiting the church and eventually connected with Susan. We relaxed and walked around the town while we waited for dinner at 7pm. Our meal was superb! I don’t usually take “food” pictures but the presentation of this meal with the whole fish intact is not something I’m used to!! It was a beautiful dining room and I was still amazed that we were the only guests! 

The evening after dinner was spent walking along the waterfront and then retiring for a restful night. Our walk to Golinhac the next day would be around 15 kilometers.

On the way out of town the next morning, we stopped for some pictures on the bridge across the Lot River – which was designated in 1998 a UNESCO World Heritage Site along the Santiago de Compostela in France.

For the first 2 or 3 kilometers, the GR65 follows the Lot River with some nice views of the river below. I even spotted some kayakers on the river! My photos of them were too blurry to post! At about the 3 kilometer mark, the trail starts a steady and, at times, steep ascent for a duration of about 3 kilometers. I was glad to have this section of the trail at the beginning of the day!! 

This section of the way travels a combination of secondary paved roads and primitive dirt trail. The trail, at times, crisscrosses the roadway as it climbs a small mountain. 

When I reached the top of the 3 kilometer ascent, who did I see but Susan?! She had taken a slower morning in Estaing and then caught a taxi to avoid the steepest part of this trail. It was fun to see her walking up ahead of me!

The scenery at the top of the ascent was spectacular! We could see for miles! While we did not see the sun today, it was still good visibility across the landscape.

Susan and I walked together for a spell and eventually we stopped to take a break at a wayside rest area for pilgrims. There was a funny border collie who greeted pilgrims as they rested!

An interpretive sign along the road offered an insight into the past uses of this landscape – le paysage. It appears goats dominated the fields and a certain form of goat cheese was produced. Also, on the southern slopes, grapes and other food crops were farmed. 

Susan and I parted ways eventually and I continued on alone. The rest of the way to Golinhac was fairly easy terrain – just some minor ups and downs and lots of open country. 

The sign above invites pilgrims to open their minds to the wonders of Nature – part of the above translates to “open unsuspected doors and let all the beauty of the world of life flow into you, of the miracle of being alive and being able to experience these moments of fullness and happiness, moments outside of time, outside of everyday life, an invitation to live, to Relive the joy and magic of life and connection to Nature.”

Near Golinhac, the trail passes right by some local farm buildings and I just fell in love with this wall of bird houses!!

I arrived in Golinhac at about 1:30pm – not bad timing considering all the hills today!! I also got to the lodging just before it started to rain! Perfect! Our accommodations for the night were in an old inn called La Bastide d’Olt. I knew it was a bit early for check-in but I went into the bar/restaurant and announced my arrival. The room was not quite ready yet but I was invited to sit and have a drink while I waited for it to be available – which I happily did!! It was a lively little pub and the atmosphere was so very friendly!

More to come on the room, the evening and tomorrow’s hike!