Lynn Amber - Travel & Photography
sharing my thoughts through words and images
Le Puy Camino – via Podiensis: Estaing to Golinhac
April 11 and April 12, 2023
As I continued my walk along the Lot River towards Estaing, the picturesque city exploded into view with the 15th-century Château d’Estaing rising up above the other buildings – taking center stage. As I approached the bridge that crosses the Lot River into the village, I noticed that the GR65 takes a left turn here instead of going right over the bridge and into the town. I will remember that for tomorrow’s hike!
The hotel I booked accommodations for this night could not have been easier to find! It was located just across the street from the bridge as I entered the town. Since it was about the time when I should be able to check in, I approached the door to the hotel but found it locked with a note that stated it would not re-open until 5pm. I thought this was unusual since it was also a restaurant and bar. Most accommodations also allowed check-ins starting at 3pm. I walked around the town for a bit and noticed all other restaurants and outdoor cafes were open which added to my concern. My arrival at this establishment only got weirder!
When I walked back to the hotel, it was still dark inside and I wandered around the outside of the building to see if there was another entrance. I must have had a concerned look on my face because a female passer-by stopped and asked if I needed assistance. I explained my predicament and she walked up to the front door of the hotel and pressed a bell (that I had not noticed before now). A few minutes later, a woman appeared walking down the inside stairs. She seemed a bit frazzled (I suspect we woke her up) but let me in and I told her I had a reservation. At first, she seemed confused. She opened a reservation book and asked again what my name was. It turns out that in making the reservations over the phone, they had misinterpreted what my name was and had a different version of my name written down. We determined that I was indeed the person with the reservation after a few minutes and she agreed to let me check-in.
I asked about our additional luggage that should have been delivered and she led me to a building several doors down from the hotel where the baggage was stashed. That also seemed odd. But, I was able to check in so I was happy. We were located on the third floor and had a very nicely appointed (albeit old-fashioned) room with a small balcony overlooking the Lot River. At 77.50 euros demi-pension each for the night, it was expected that the room and dinner should be exceptional! All of the other cheaper accommodations in town were booked which forced us to stay here. The other very odd observation I made was that we were the only guests in this hotel. As we ascended the stairs to our room, there were linens and such scattered in the hallways and some corridors were blocked off. I chose not to think about why this was – our room was nice and that’s all that mattered to me! I did wonder how dinner would be??
As soon as I got settled in the room, I washed out some clothes and set up a clothesline on the balcony. The sun was shining and I was sure my clothes would dry nicely even with though we were on the backside of the afternoon.
After showering and a change of clothes, I decided to explore the town. In particular, I was looking for the local pharmacy and also an épicerie where I could pick up items for the next day’s walk. At the pharmacy, my goal was to find a small pair of scissors and some dental floss for Susan. I was successful! I also purchased some extra band-aids since I was still being cautious and bandaging my little toe to prevent the blister from returning.
Estaing is one of the prettiest towns along our route. The village is a member of an organization that supports tourism in the many small rural towns in France – Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. There is a rigorous process involved in being considered for this designation so visitors can be assured that a village with this label is worthy.
The famed 11th century Château d’Estaing dominates the skyline and was purchased in 2005 by a former French president, Valéry Giscard, and his extended family. Prior to his death in 2020, he set up a foundation that would allow for the maintenance and preservation of this medieval castle. As I walked along the narrow streets, I could imagine what it must have been like to live here in medieval times.
After visiting the pharmacy and scoping out the épicerie, I made a detour on one of the side streets to visit the 15th century church – L’église Saint-Fleuret. The church is named for the saint who supposedly brought Christianity to Estaing back in the year 621. At the base of the stairs leading up to the entrance to the church, there is a really cool cobblestone mosaic with a heart outlined in dark stones.
I headed back to the hotel after visiting the church and eventually connected with Susan. We relaxed and walked around the town while we waited for dinner at 7pm. Our meal was superb! I don’t usually take “food” pictures but the presentation of this meal with the whole fish intact is not something I’m used to!! It was a beautiful dining room and I was still amazed that we were the only guests!
The evening after dinner was spent walking along the waterfront and then retiring for a restful night. Our walk to Golinhac the next day would be around 15 kilometers.
On the way out of town the next morning, we stopped for some pictures on the bridge across the Lot River – which was designated in 1998 a UNESCO World Heritage Site along the Santiago de Compostela in France.
For the first 2 or 3 kilometers, the GR65 follows the Lot River with some nice views of the river below. I even spotted some kayakers on the river! My photos of them were too blurry to post! At about the 3 kilometer mark, the trail starts a steady and, at times, steep ascent for a duration of about 3 kilometers. I was glad to have this section of the trail at the beginning of the day!!
This section of the way travels a combination of secondary paved roads and primitive dirt trail. The trail, at times, crisscrosses the roadway as it climbs a small mountain.
When I reached the top of the 3 kilometer ascent, who did I see but Susan?! She had taken a slower morning in Estaing and then caught a taxi to avoid the steepest part of this trail. It was fun to see her walking up ahead of me!
The scenery at the top of the ascent was spectacular! We could see for miles! While we did not see the sun today, it was still good visibility across the landscape.
Susan and I walked together for a spell and eventually we stopped to take a break at a wayside rest area for pilgrims. There was a funny border collie who greeted pilgrims as they rested!
An interpretive sign along the road offered an insight into the past uses of this landscape – le paysage. It appears goats dominated the fields and a certain form of goat cheese was produced. Also, on the southern slopes, grapes and other food crops were farmed.
Susan and I parted ways eventually and I continued on alone. The rest of the way to Golinhac was fairly easy terrain – just some minor ups and downs and lots of open country.
The sign above invites pilgrims to open their minds to the wonders of Nature – part of the above translates to “open unsuspected doors and let all the beauty of the world of life flow into you, of the miracle of being alive and being able to experience these moments of fullness and happiness, moments outside of time, outside of everyday life, an invitation to live, to Relive the joy and magic of life and connection to Nature.”
Near Golinhac, the trail passes right by some local farm buildings and I just fell in love with this wall of bird houses!!
I arrived in Golinhac at about 1:30pm – not bad timing considering all the hills today!! I also got to the lodging just before it started to rain! Perfect! Our accommodations for the night were in an old inn called La Bastide d’Olt. I knew it was a bit early for check-in but I went into the bar/restaurant and announced my arrival. The room was not quite ready yet but I was invited to sit and have a drink while I waited for it to be available – which I happily did!! It was a lively little pub and the atmosphere was so very friendly!
More to come on the room, the evening and tomorrow’s hike!
Holiday Traditions 12.26.23
I hope everyone who celebrates had a peaceful, relaxing Christmas with family and friends. Jim and I spent the last couple of days sharing the holiday with my older son and his wife. It’s always a great visit full of good conversation, food! and relaxation. While visiting them I never bring a book from home because I always find it fun and informative to peruse their bookshelves and discover new reading material.
Sitting on a table by their sofa one morning while quietly sipping my coffee, I noticed a small little book titled The Four Agreements – A Toltec Wisdom Book. Based on the ancient Mexican Toltec civilization dating to between the 10th and 12th centuries, the book relates to the reader Four Agreements with which we should strive to adopt throughout our lives.
The Toltec civilization was admired for their mystical, spiritual ways and teachings as well as their art. They believed the way a person lived their lives was their “art” – an extraordinarily insightful way of thinking in my humble opinion.
A quote at the beginning of the book captured my attention – and kept me reading: ”Living is easy with eyes closed, misunderstanding all you see” – John Lennon
At this time of year, when we are all making our New Year resolutions, I think I will focus on the Four Agreements:
“Be Impeccable with your word – speak with integrity and use the power of your word in the direction of truth and love,
Don’t take anything personally – when you are immune to the opinions and actions of others, you won’t be the victim of needless suffering,
Don’t make assumptions – communicate with others as clearly as you can to avoid misunderstandings, sadness and drama, and
Always do your best – under any circumstances, simply do your best, and you will avoid self-judgement, self-abuse and regret.” From The Four Agreements, by Don Miquel Ruiz
May the New Year bring peace, truth, and stability to all our lives – both here in the United States and abroad.
Holiday Traditions 12.23.23
The snowman collection continues…
Holiday Traditions 12.22.23
A number of the ornaments I received from Mom have a “snowman” theme – acquired during our first few years in Vermont where we were pretty much guaranteed a white Christmas! These adorable snowmen always featured some aspect of nature – usually adorned with birds or animals.
Holiday Traditions 12.20.23
The ornaments commemorating the First Christmas celebration for both of my sons are precious – one in the year 1988 and one in the year 1992! Adorable!
When we still lived in Pennsylvania near Longwood Gardens, it was an annual tradition to visit the Christmas displays each year. I just recently came across this photo from 1998 – our last Christmas living in Pennsylvania – taken in the main conservatory room.
Le Puy Camino – via Podiensis: Saint-Côme d’Olt to Estaing
April 11, 2023
Today’s walk to the picturesque village of Estaing was by far my favorite day since the beginning of the journey. It would also prove to be the longest – clocking in at 21.5 kilometers. The weather started out cloudy with a threat of rain so we donned our rain gear and backpack rain fly at the onset.
It was a 2 km walk back to where we would pick up the GR65 just as it crosses the Lot River. Between Saint-Côme d’Olt and the next village, Espalion, there were 2 potential routes we could take. The traditional GR65 rises steeply above the Lot River to a high point where the statue “La Verge de Vernus” holds court over the valley. The variant route follows the elevation of the Lot River along a relatively flat section of trail and reunites with the GR65 just prior to entering Espalion. We decided since it will be a long day to take the variant pathway along the river.
Our walk towards the river and the GR65 offered up some final nice views of the church and architecture of the Saint-Côme d’Olt.
To reach the river pathway to Espalion, we cross the bridge spanning the Lot River. It was an opportunity to take some photographs and look back towards Saint-Côme d’Olt.
As we were crossing the bridge, I noticed an organized campground below the bridge on the banks of the river. I’ve not seen many campgrounds along our route.
It is a 6 kilometer walk “par la rive du Lot” to Espalion from Saint-Côme d’Olt and Susan and I decided to walk together until reaching Espalion. We planned to grab a snack in Espalion and something to add to our pack for lunch.
The walk along the river was nice and I’m glad we made the decision to take the more relaxing alternate “chemin.”
We stopped by the above home to readjust our packs and take a break halfway to Espalion. On the rich river bottom land, it was also encouraging to see someone starting to get their garden ready for spring planting!
We arrived on the outskirts of Espalion in no time at all and followed the GR65 to the center of town.
At the juncture above, we veered right through a sports complex which then led to a riverside walk through an urban park. The pathway through the park along the Lot River was lined with enormous sycamore trees and embellished with some unique artwork.
The above statue of a stone mason honors all the people who, over the ages, contributed to the “architectural, civic and religious art” along the pathways of Saint-Jacques de Compostle. Part of the text reads (translated): “With this statue representing a stonemason, we wish to pay tribute to all men of the art, from the master builder to the journeyman worker for the testimony they left us, all driven by the love of their profession and of their passion for building.”
Espalion is a bustling little town with a vibrant community. The town dates back to the Middle Ages and was a Templar command post. At its peak in the medieval era, the town was centered around the Place du Griffoul and comprised of many shops, a drawbridge and numerous towers.
We followed the GR 65 into town and then wandered off trail in search of food! The downtown area was somewhat of a maze and disorienting from a directional standpoint!
After attempting to follow some directions given to us by a shopkeeper, we eventually stumbled upon one of the finest épiceries – Ecofrais – that we encountered along the way!
There was a small area inside where we could sit and enjoy a “second” breakfast and their deli displayed the most scrumptious sandwich choices I have ever seen. For breakfast, I opted for a Tart Provençale along with a chocolate eclair – at an incredulous price of 4.50 euros – and I settled on a “fromage de chèvre and figues” sandwich with lettuce to take along for lunch (again 4.50 euros).
After our bellies were full, we decided to stop by the church before heading out of town. La Vieille Église – also called the Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste – is a newer church built in the late 1800’s to replace the older church that was deemed to small to accommodate the growing parish. The two 45 meter-high towers dominate the red sandstone façade. On top of the towers are bronze statues of Saint Joseph and the Virgin Mary.
Across the street from the “new” church sits “L’ancienne église Saint-Jean-Baptiste d’Espalion”. It is now a museum and an historical monument.
On our way out of town via the GR65, we pass by the Pont Vieux. Built of red sandstone, it dates to the 13th century and was a toll bridge. It is now a pedestrian only right-of-way. Formerly, this area was labeled the province of Rouergue and it was known for cheese factories and salt warehouses. The original bridge was constructed to facilitate passage of salt through the area from the Mediterranean to Aubrac. It is an historic monument today and also listed as a World Heritage UNESCO site along the way of Saint Jacques de Compostelle.
Leaving Espalion behind, it was a relatively level walk until reaching the small hamlet of Bessuéjouls. Here the Way passes by the Eglise St-Pierre. Also a UNESCO site, the present church dates back to the 14th century and enjoyed a restoration in the 1800’s. The oldest section of the church, the bell tower, dates to the 11th century and includes an ancient chapel. Unfortunately, the church was not open so I could only admire it from a distance.
After passing by the Eglise St. Pierre, I entered the small village. While there is a small cafe located here, I was still full from breakfast – so did not stop.
Near the “mairie” however there was a very nice public restroom and potable water!! I did take advantage of that!
It was a steep ascent out of Bessuéjouls and I stopped for a rest at the top and aired out my feet!! The view across the valleys and the hills was beautiful.
From here, the chemin follows foot paths and quiet back roads. After a few more kilometers, I approached an impressive “castle” that I learned is the Château Beauregard – a winery and restaurant.
From the Château, I could see my next interesting piece of architecture along the way.
I stopped for lunch at the picnic area adjacent to the Eglise de Trédou. It was by far the absolute best lunch I had along the way! I never got another sandwich that rivaled the “fromage de chèvre et figues” combination!
After lunch, I took some time to visit the Eglise de Trédou – one of many churches along this stretch of the “chemin”! The exterior architecture is very basic with stucco/stone walls and slate roof and appeared to be somewhat in a state of disrepair. I was pleasantly surprised when I walked inside – the simplistic decorations and white walls brightened up the interior.
I started to notice the many ways in which the stations of the cross are depicted in the various churches. In the Tredou church, they were simple painted tiles attached to the interior walls around the perimeter of the room.
As with all cemeteries, there is potable water available.
With the day getting on and more than 5.5 kilometers to go, I continued on to the little village of Verrières where there is another ancient church – the Chapelle Saint-Michel. The route passes through some open pastures and by many old buildings.
Leaving Verrières, the Way travels along minor roads and there is a short up and down along a footpath before dropping down to the Lot River that flows towards Estaing. When I reached the path along the river and caught my first sight of Estaing, I was blown away by the “fairy-tale” picture presented to me.
More to come on our evening in Estaing, and tomorrow’s walk!
Holiday Traditions 12.18.23
The carousel turns
My horse rises up and, then, down
I snatch the gold ring!
~Lynn Thomas Amber
I’ve always had a fascination with carousels. I can’t pass up riding one whenever we come across them in our travels. When I’m gliding along on a painted horse, moving up and down with the rhythm of the music, the youth and innocence of my childhood is recaptured.
Holiday Traditions 12.11.23
This ornament is cool for 2 reasons. Number one – the model year for this Ford truck replica is indicated on the front of the truck – 1956. That’s the year I was born. 🙂
The other cool thing about this ornament is that it reminds me of our time in Pennsylvania owning a 13-acre Christmas Tree farm. We operated a “cut your own” tree farm during the holiday season and loaded many a tree in people’s vehicles. We were also known for owning and running “old” trucks and farm equipment. (And we still do have an old truck by most people’s standards!) When I met my husband, his two forms of transportation were a 1960 Dodge 1-ton stake bed truck and a 1974 Honda 550 motorcycle. That’s it. (I’m not counting his tree-trimming work truck – which was also an “early model” GMC truck) My first ride in the 1960 Dodge truck was on our first date!
That old Dodge was fun to drive – with it’s loud motor, old-fashioned stick shift and “squirrelly” steering mechanism. Traveling down the winding, hilly roads of Chester County in that truck could be an extraordinary experience – especially when carrying a load. Back in the day, I was trusted with hauling logs with that truck and, on one particular day, I was tasked with transporting a load of bagged fertilizer for a landscape job we were doing. On that occasion, I was way over-loaded (weight-wise) and it was not until I started towards our farm from the fertilizer store that I realized my mistake. It was a wild and crazy ride once I pulled off the highway and started down the two-lane, narrow Route 926 in Chester County that led towards home. When I finally pulled into our driveway, the relief I felt wash over me was overwhelming. I literally had to pry my fingers from the steering wheel. I never made that mistake again!
Holiday Traditions 12.8.23
This ornament represents 3 different aspects of my life – 3 in 1 – way to go Mom! As a child and teenager, I loved to draw and one of my favorite subjects was Snoopy. I loved the Peanuts cartoon and the adventures of this loveable beagle. I rather fancied his ability to transport himself into any number of fantasy lives and his imaginative spirit and comical antics captured my heart.
When I made the decision to home school my younger son for several years, we decided he should join a local boy scout troop as a way to connect him with other kids his age. He thrived as a member of this small troop and worked his way through the ranks to earn his Eagle Scout badge. My husband and I, as parents, were active volunteers with his troop and it was a positive experience for us all. When I unpack this ornament each year depicting Snoopy as a scout, I’m reminded of much how that one decision in my son’s life made such an impact.
As a family, we loved to canoe and still do. When my sons were growing up, we embarked on several canoe camping trips over the years – to Algonquin Provincial Park in Canada, to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness in Minnesota, and, later as they reached young adults, to the Debsconeag Lake Wilderness Area in Maine. My husband and our sons eventually converted our basement to a woodshop and built two cedar strip canoes which they use to this day on their own adventures. I might add that on the day of my older son’s marriage, he arrived at the lakeside ceremony via the water in his cedar strip canoe. What a precious, tearful sight that was!
Lots of memories to be cherished with this one ornament! 🙂
Holiday Traditions 12.7.23
This ornament represents my love of gardens and gardening – my years as a landscape designer and attending to my own small gardens at home. There is something deeply satisfying about kneeling in the dirt, plunging a trowel into the soil and tenderly situating a new plant in the garden.
While traveling, my garden “bug” is satiated with excursions to any and all public gardens along our route and photographing plants in the wild. I admit to judging all public gardens against my standard – Longwood Gardens, in Chester County, PA. It is where I grew up and I’ve yet to visit another garden that quite measures up! But, I’ll keep searching! 🙂
Lynn Amber - Travel & Photography 