Lynn Amber - Travel & Photography
sharing my thoughts through words and images
Panama Canal Cruise Days 7-8
February 2, 2024 At Sea
We spent 2 nights and 1 day at sea enroute from Panama City to our next port of call – Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala. It was a busy day of activities on board the ship!
I woke up around 7:30am and headed up to the Observation Deck for the continental breakfast – hot oatmeal embellished with granola, cinnamon and raisins complemented with coffee, a fruit bowl and – my weakness – a chocolate croissant. Have I said this already? There is NO shortage of good food on a Norwegian cruise ship!
After breakfast, I worked out in the fitness center. We were passing along the coast of Costa Rica today and from my treadmill I spotted a whole pod of dolphins! How exciting!! Afterwards, I joined in on another line-dancing session! Following a light lunch, my sister and I sat in on the Art Auction. I was curious about how it worked – the bidding process, the artwork and the price points.
To start the auction, participants are given sticky notes and asked to move around the art offerings and mark the ones they might be interested in. There is no obligation here but it allows the staff to choose which pieces to auction based on interest among the crowd.
There was definitely something for everyone – from pieces in the low-hundreds to many thousands. The “mystery” category offered the most value but you were bidding on the unknown. You did have the option once you could view the artwork in the mystery category to back out – so it was low risk.
We had fun watching others bid on the many pieces. I had never been to an art auction so I learned a bit and came away a tad more knowledgeable! 🙂
We chose to have Happy Hour in the Wine Bar this day and then returned to our stateroom for a shower before enjoying a light dinner.
There are some shows in the Bliss Theater that must be reserved in advance. One of the shows we reserved is the British musical comedy “Six.” It was a wildly lively and exotic interpretation of the lives of the six wives of Henry the VIII. I thoroughly enjoyed it!
To end the night, we popped into The District Brew House to listen to the talented singer/guitar player who frequented this venue – Juci Do Carmo. He had a popular following among the crowd and played a fair amount of songs from our era.
February 3, 2024 – Puerto Quetzal and Antigua
The title of our excursion today is “Easy Antigua” and it was a tour that all three of us – Mom, Vicki and I – could take together. We once again chose to eat breakfast at The Local since it was so convenient to our stateroom and also to the Bliss Theater where most of our tours met before disembarking the ship.
We crossed over this bridge from the ship to our tour busses and started this tour with a very lengthy bus ride to the interior of Guatemala to the ancient city of Antigua high in the mountains.
We passed through the rural countryside of Guatemala and miles of sugar cane fields that were being burned. Our tour guide was afraid that the smoke might obscure our views of the picturesque volcanos on the way but that was not the case. Many of my photos before reaching Antigua were taken through the bus window – so less than ideal – but you get the idea!
Burning sugar cane fields is a practice that has been declining due to the negative impacts it has on the environment and on the health of locals who live near the sugar cane fields. However, in some places, it is still practiced just before harvest as a means of removing the parts of the plant that are not needed so that harvesting the sugar-laden stalks is rendered easier. Our guide was definitely in the camp that disapproved of continuing this practice.
As we got closer to Antigua, we started to climb into the mountains and the sugar cane fields disappeared to be replaced with coffee plants at the higher elevation. Antigua is at an elevation of just over 5,000 feet and is surrounded by volcanos. It is quite a picturesque setting. Antigua held the distinction of being the capital of Guatemala for over 200 years between 1543 and 1773. After a series of devastating earthquakes, the capital was moved to the current location of Guatemala City.
Today, the town enjoys the distinction of being designated in 1979 as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. According to the World Heritage Convention website, the following criteria in particular supported this designation:
Criterion (ii): Antigua Guatemala contains living traces of Spanish culture with its principal monuments, built in the Baroque style of the 18th century preserved today as ruins. Antigua Guatemala was a centre for the exportation of religious images and statues to the rest of the American continent and to Spain during the 17th and 18th centuries.
Criterion (iii): Antigua Guatemala is one the earliest and outstanding examples of city planning in Latin America in which the basic grid plan, dating from 1543, has been maintained. Its religious, private and government buildings are outstanding evidences of Spanish colonial architecture in Antigua.
Criterion (iv) The many churches and monasteries in Antigua Guatemala testify to the influence of the Christian church, during the colonial period, on every aspect of daily life in the city. Barroco antigueño developed in this area, a regional adaptation of the Baroque style designed to withstand the earthquakes common in the region. (From: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/65/)
Because the main part of the historic center of Antigua is relatively small and contains very narrow streets, large tour busses are not permitted in the town. We drove to a location just outside this historic district and transferred to smaller “mini-busses”.
Much of our view of the town was while riding in the mini-bus but we did have a couple of opportunities to leave the bus for short excursions via foot.
We visited a jade museum where we could tour the factory and, of course, visit the gift shop. We also got an opportunity to use the restroom facilities here. What was interesting was that they had lost electricity prior to our arrival, so using the restroom was a particular challenge! Thank goodness for cell phone flashlights!! The museum was also without power but the natural daylight was sufficient for us to walk through and see some of the artifacts. There was a person giving a talk on the history of the jade industry here but it was so crowded and we could not get close enough to hear what she was saying.
From my own research, I learned that Guatemalan Jade is actually rather rare. It is a form of the mineral called Jadeite that is found in Guatemala and it was highly revered by the Mayan culture. They considered jade to represent eternity and it was a symbol of wealth and prestige.
Jadeite is found in only one other place in the world – Myanmar. The jadeite mined in Guatemala is quite diverse in color – from light to dark green and also shades of lavender, yellow and white. When the Mayan society was under threat by the Spanish invaders, they did not want to expose where they mined the jade and kept it hidden from the conquerors. Since the Spanish did not really value jade, the locations where jade was mined remained lost for centuries. I was surprised to learn that it has only been in the last 50 years that the jade industry has been revitalized in Guatemala.
Several jade enthusiasts – geologists and researchers – began to study jade in Guatemala in the 1940’s and located some in the Motagua River Valley. It was not until 1974, however, that an American ex-patriate couple located more in the same valley – Jay and Mary Lou Ridinger – and began to seriously invest in revitalizing the industry. They set up shop in Antigua – and were the original owners of the shop we visited.
After visiting the jade museum, we toured through the town and eventually came to the Parque Central (Plaza Mayor) in Antigua – a popular hang-out with lots of benches and food vendors and eateries.
We had the opportunity to exit the bus and explore on our own for awhile. Mom chose to find a seat and people-watch! 🙂
My sister, Vicki, and I walked around the perimeter of the plaza and explored the Catedral San Jose.
On a side street behind the church, I noticed a old ruin that intrigued me and I went to explore. It was the Ruinas de La Antigua Catedral Metropolitana de Santiago de Los Caballeros de Guatemala. Originally constructed in 1545, it suffered at the hands of several earthquakes over the years.
As we ended our self-guided walk around the plaza and headed back to our tour bus via the “mini-bus”, I tried to capture some more of the town from the bus window.
We got back to The Bliss at dusk. I must admit that this excursion was my least favorite of the entire cruise. It was so very crowded in Antigua and the drive to the town was long – too much sitting. I suspect my view of this tour is also somewhat skewed as well due to the onset of a nasty bug that hit me today. As the day wore on, I started to experience a sore throat and completely lost my voice by the time we returned to the ship. I was pretty much worn out at the end of the day as the germ sapped my energy and trying my best to hide it. I was the third in our party of three to finally succumb to illness. 😦 I hoped that it would not persist. When I got back to the ship, I retired to the stateroom for an early night. Our next day was to be a day at sea so I thought perhaps I would have the opportunity to rest and recover.
Panama Canal Cruise Day 6
February 1, 2024
When we were coming through the canal the day before, I was surprised to see the high rise buildings of Panama City in the background. I had no idea that it was such a modern and large city.
I read that two-fifths of the population of Panama live within the metropolitan area of the city. Today, Panama City is a major financial center for both Central and South America and relies heavily on canal traffic to support its economy.
My sister and I had to meet our tour group at 7:30am in the Bliss Theater so we had breakfast in The Local as it is the most convenient spot to our stateroom. Our excursion today is titled “Highlights of Panama City” and we will spend most of the 4 hour tour in Casco Viejo (Colonial Panama City) and Panama Viejo (the original Old City).
Our first stop after boarding our tour bus was a wide, tree-lined avenue that offered up fantastic views of the city skyline and the Gulf of Panama. It was a very impressive sight!
We started our day with a walking tour of Colonial Panama – Casco Viejo – Old Town – Historic District. It is known by many names! Casco Viejo was established in 1674 after the original city (Panama Viejo) was destroyed by pirates. There is a decidedly French influence in the architecture of Colonial Panama due to the French presence here during their attempt to build a canal back in the 1880’s. The beautiful French-style balconies mingle with the Spanish architecture creating a look that is very much like New Orleans.
Casco Viejo had, for many years, descended into a devastating slum and many of the historic buildings were in a state of disrepair. In 1997, the walled city of Casco Viejo was awarded the distinction of being named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Money started to pour in and it has become one of the most successful revitalization projects in Panama and the Americas in general. The French and Spanish Colonial buildings are being restored to their former glory and it has become a premier tourist destination. Today, there is still evidence of buildings in need of repair alongside remarkably renovated architectural wonders.
As we were ambling along the streets of Casco Viejo, I learned a valuable lesson! 🙂 I was taking photographs as I walked and my eye caught this whimsical frog signage. I snapped the photo and, then unbelievably, this darned fire hydrant along the sidewalk just jumped right out in front of me and down I went on the pavement! I landed on my right knee and hand but, thankfully, suffered nothing but a bruised ego. It was a wake up call to STOP walking before taking a picture and be aware of what is in front of me! 🙂
I was particularly taken with all the plant-infused and decorative balconies in this walled city. Examples below:
We passed by the Plaza Herrera on our way to one of the churches in the city. Tomás de Herrera was briefly the President of The Free State of the Isthmus in 1840. Panama declared independence from Columbia for a short period of time – 13 months – before rejoining Columbia until 1903.
Our next stop on our tour was the famous Iglesia San Jose – Church of Saint Joseph. Built in 1673, it is known for its massive golden altar that is carved in wood and painted with gold flakes. It was reportedly salvaged from a church in Panama Viejo when pirates destroyed that Old City.
There were two other interesting attractions at the Church of Saint Joseph. In a side room off the main church, there was a beautiful, expansive nativity scene. The artistic detail in the display is impressive.
Also, in the same room, there are some wooden statues dating to the 1700’s that I read are representations of the disciples along with some other artifacts.
As we exited via the church, there was a side altar with a statue of the much-loved Saint Eduvigis or Saint Hedwig. Panamanians pray to this saint when they are faced with housing needs and seek her help. When their prayers are answered, they return to this altar and place miniature houses at her feet.
After leaving the church, our next stop was to visit some shops so we could pick up some souvenirs and use the restroom facilities. Along the same block, I was intrigued by this very old structure and took some pictures so I could research it later on. This historic landmark is the Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús – Church of the Society of Jesus. The Jesuits are a religious order whose focus is education and missionary work. This order was originally established in the Old City in the 1500’s but later moved to Casco Viejo when the Old City was destroyed. This building dates to the 1700’s.
There have been several attempts to rebuild the ruins over the years but they never came to fruition. Most recently in 2018, the luxury hotel – Hotel La Compañía – purchased the whole block and the Panama Tourism Authority gave them the rights to the ancient ruin with the provision that they restore the building and create a public garden.
Our tour guide gave us some time to wander around on our own and pointed us in the direction of a walkway that would take us past the Plaza de Francia with a memorial to France’s role in the construction of the Panama Canal.
We were to rendezvous with our tour guide in Independence Square after taking our self-guided walking tour. The square is anchored by an enormous church – the Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Santa Maria the Ancient.
There were a group of indigenous youth who were performing a dance routine in the square and playing what looked and sounded like a type of recorder.
We left Casco Viejo and boarded the bus for a ride to the other side of the modern city and our visit to the ruins of Panama Viejo. We drove right through the heart of the “new city” – quite amazing to see these tall high rises up close.
Panama Viejo is the original Spanish settlement in Panama that dates to the early 1500’s and was the first capital of Panama. The town survived for over 150 years until it suffered destruction at the hands of a pirate attack in 1671. The people decided not to rebuild on this site and instead moved the town to the location of Casco Viejo – where it could be better fortified against invasion. Little remains of the original buildings except some old ruins but there is a fantastic museum on site that captures the period and offers insight into both the indigenous population and the Spanish influence. It is evident from the ruins that the town was built with a clear, planned outline similar to many European towns.
Some interesting information in the exhibit hall:
We walked the grounds of the architectural site after visiting the museum. I was struck by the backdrop to the ruins. Everywhere you looked the ruins framed the modern city in the background. I thought the imagery striking.
All in all, it was a really great introduction to Panama City and the history of the area. We arrived back at the ship in time for a late lunch and relaxed for the afternoon. We enjoyed a light dinner before watching 2 shows that evening in the Bliss Theater – Michael Lindon was the first performer who sang songs as he recounted his life story – and – a fantastic performance by a Beatle’s tribute band who played songs from the Abbey Road era.
Panama Canal Cruise Day 5
January 31, 2024
Today is the day!!! The Panama Canal Transit! We left Cartagena and traveled overnight to the entrance to the Panama Canal. I was up early and watched from our balcony doors as we neared land in the wee hours of the morning. I could see land and lights and we started passing some container ships coming from the canal.
The Panama Canal is a 51-mile man-made waterway that connects the Atlantic Ocean and the Pacific Ocean across the Isthmus of Panama. Originally, the construction was started by France in 1881 but a lack of investors and problems with worker shortages due to disease caused them to abandon the project. In 1904, the United States took over the project as well as control of the area surrounding the canal by purchasing the rights from the French for a sum of 40 million. The Panama Canal is considered one of the most difficult engineering accomplishments ever completed.
Difficulties in coming to an agreement with Columbia (who controlled the area at the time) were solved when Panama declared independence from Columbia in 1903 and we supported Panama to further our own interests. A treaty was signed between Panama and the United States that stated the U.S. would control the canal indefinitely. The canal opened for business in 1914. Relations with Panama were still strained over the years as many Panamanians were upset about the original Hay–Bunau-Varilla Treaty. In 1977, the United States entered into new treaties with Panama called the Torrijos–Carter Treaties in honor of President Carter and the Commander of the Panama National Guard, Omar Torrijos. Under this agreement, from 1977 until 1999, the canal was operated jointly by the United States and Panama. In 1999, the operation of the canal was turned over to Panama and is now managed by the Panama Canal Authority.
In 2016, an expansion of the canal included locks that could handle larger ships. The channels were longer, wider and deeper. They were built parallel to the existing Gatun and Miraflores Locks. We navigated through the 2016 Agua Clara and Cocoli Locks. The older Gatun and Miraflores Locks are still in use as well. It was interesting to learn how the tolls are assessed for passenger cruise ships. In a talk given on board the ship, we were informed that cruise ships pay a per-person charge based on the number of permanent “beds” on the ship. It is actually quite costly and can be as much as 1/2 million dollars.
It was overcast as we approached the first set of locks and there was a threat of rain but it never really materialized. For the transit, the open area at the bow of the ship was made accessible so that passengers could get an outdoor front-row seat to the passage. Lucky for us, the doorway to the bow was on Deck 8 right at the end of our stateroom corridor! We had a short walk to the bow and were able to get up close enough to the railing so as to get photographs unimpeded by people. They had some chairs set up under temporary canopies and also provided coffee and other drinks. That was a good thing because we did not have time to get breakfast before the start of the transit! At the very least I needed some coffee!!
As we came to the first lock, we could watch as the gate opened up that would allow us to enter. It was about 7:30am when we gained access to the first lock.
There were quite a few passengers who converged on the bow of the ship for the morning transit through the Agua Clara Locks. Once we were securely in one of the locks, the back gate closes and we sit there as the lock fills with water and raises the ship to the level of the next lock. How this equilibrium is met was a topic of conversation with fellow passengers at the bow railing. We were standing next to an Australian gentleman and an American man who we enjoyed chatting with throughout the transit. We all had our theories on how this engineering feat is accomplished!
It took somewhere around 45 minutes from the time we entered a lock to get to the point where we moved onto the next lock. The gate behind us had to close, the water level had to rise to a certain point level with the next lock, then the forward gate would open and we would move forward into the next lock.
When we were sitting in the second lock, we could finally see the third lock and Gatun Lake in the distance. The ships captain informed us that once we were in the lake we would find a spot to anchor and wait for the go ahead to proceed to the Cocoli Locks. The main reason for the wait is due to a bridge on the other side of the Cocoli Locks that is not high enough for the Norwegian Bliss to pass under unless it is low tide. So – timing is everything!!
At 10:00am, we were through the Agua Clara Locks and in Gatun Lake!! It was a 2.5 hour transit through the first set of locks and we did not miss one minute of it!!
Above – passing into Gatun Lake!! So exciting!!
Gatun Lake is an artificial lake completed in 1912. At the time it was built, it was the largest artificial lake in the world and the Gatun Dam was the largest dam in the world. The Chagres River and several other smaller waterways were dammed to create the lake which would hold water necessary for the locks to operate. It also aids in maintaining adequate water levels in the Gaillard Cut – a route that was blasted through the mountains to the west of the lake – that connects the lake to the western most locks. The level of the lake alternates between 82 and 85 feet above sea level.
The ship started through Gatun Lake and somewhere in the lake, where there was ample room, we stopped and anchored until 3pm. Finally, it was time to take a break from the bow of the ship and get some breakfast!! Since it would be several hours before we got under way again, we enjoyed some activities while we waited. After breakfast, I went to the fitness center for a workout.
I also walked around The Waterfront taking pictures of the lake and shoreline before meeting up with my sister for a line dancing class in the Atrium.
We also fit in Happy Hour at The Cavern and sat outside to enjoy a drink before we would headed back to our stateroom to enjoy the ride towards the western locks.
At around 3:00pm, we got under way and before too long we came to some industrial activity. We were about to enter the Gaillard Cut – also known as the Culebra Cut and the Gamboa Passage – or simply, “the passage.” It is a narrow channel that connects the lake to the Cocoli Locks.
Here we picked up some “tug boats” that would accompany us through the cut. We decided to hang out on our stateroom balcony and enjoy the ride through the passage from there.
It was a nice relaxing cruise through the narrow channel and we were even on the shady side of the ship – a bonus!! There was not much activity along the shoreline and it appeared to be fairly undeveloped except for access roads for canal maintenance.
I went to the bow briefly so I could get a better photograph that showed the width of the channel. You can see how narrow it is!
After passing under this bridge, we realized we would be approaching the Cocoli Locks and decided to go back out to the bow for the transit through these locks. The channel opened up and we came to some Panama Canal Authority buildings and I was fascinated by a barge that was doing work to bring up material from the channel. I speculated as to the purpose of the work – maybe something like a dredging apparatus?
At about 4:30pm, we started into the first lock in the Cocoli Lock system. It would take us until 7:00pm to reach the Gulf of Panama.
We were on the bow waiting for the passage into the Gulf of Panama – but it seemed to be taking a little longer than expected. We heard a commotion and people cheering off to our left along the railing and wandered over to see what was happening. From the side of the ship, we could see that there was a problem. Apparently, a piece of the dock had broken loose and was floating in the water in the lock. This must present a danger to the ship and canal staff on shore were trying to retrieve it. It was quite entertaining to watch and more and more staff were summoned to get this piece of debris out of the water! You can see that it is getting to be nighttime! I was surprised to see the tug boat in front of our ship in the lock!
It was a busy day and we were tired and hungry by the time we passed the final set of locks. We opted to go to the Taste restaurant for dinner – one of the complimentary dining establishments. The next day we would be doing our Panama City excursion and it would be an early day.
I’m ending this post with just the canal transit – as it got quite lengthy – and I have recently been traveling again in the Airstream and have been absent from the blog for a while. Next time – Panama City…
Panama Canal Cruise – Days 2-4
January 28, 2024
I thought it would be informative to post our basic itinerary for the cruise. It gives an overview of the entire trip. After leaving the Port of Miami, we spent the next two full days at sea – making our way through the Windward Passage between Cuba and Haiti towards the port city of Cartagena, Columbia.
As to be expected on a large cruise ship with thousands of people, we all experienced days that we weren’t feeling up to par. In all fairness to the cruise line, they did an excellent job of providing hand sanitizing stations throughout the ship. But, those pesky germs are everywhere! For my sister, it was our first day at sea. She was still recovering from a on-going cold and the travel from California took its toll on her. She opted to sleep in this morning and rest for much of the day in the cabin. Mom and I left for breakfast with the main goal to explore the ship and get familiar with all the amenities.
I was curious about the Observation Lounge which was located on Deck 15 and encompassed the entire deck from mid-ship to bow. It is a large, spacious area with floor to ceiling windows and comfortable seating throughout. A continental-style buffet breakfast and lunch (including a bar) are available from early morning until mid-afternoon. We decided to head there for breakfast and check it out. The only hot item on the buffet here is oatmeal so I indulged in that and embellished it with a bowl of fruit and a chocolate croissant. (I became enamored with chocolate croissants while in France as they were often served in our gîtes.) Of course, coffee and orange juice were also enjoyed!
After a leisurely breakfast, Mom and I went back down to Deck 8 to walk The Waterfront – an outdoor walkway that wraps around the ship from the port side of mid-ship to the aft and back to mid-ship via the starboard side. Along the way, there are shops and outdoor cafes and bars.
Once Mom and I had traversed The Waterfront, we headed back inside to the Atrium. Located on Deck 6, this is an open area with a large screen, a small dance floor and spacious seating area where lots of activities take place throughout the day. This morning, the entertainment staff offered up a Cha Cha dance lesson which I was eager to participate in and it was loads of fun! Throughout the cruise, there were a few line dancing sessions as well. I took lunchtime line dancing classes for years when I worked at Dartmouth College and was thrilled to be able to get some refresher classes!
Directly after the Cha Cha lesson, the staff entertained us with a presentation about Columbia. We stayed to listen to this since our first port of call would be Cartagena, Columbia. I should mention that each day our cabin steward, Asa, left us a printed program guide called the Freestyle Daily so that we could plan our day in between port excursions. It included a schedule of events happening aboard ship as well as other useful information about each port and special activities.
By the time the Columbia presentation was over, it was lunchtime. The Local is a bar and restaurant that mimics the atmosphere of a local, corner bar in any neighborhood in Any City, USA. As I mentioned, all of the complimentary dining establishments were included in our cruise package cost. Along with The Local, there are six other restaurants on board that we could choose from for our complimentary meals. We managed to sample them all during our cruise more than once!
In the afternoon, Mom and I parted ways. She headed up to the Observation Lounge to chill out with some reading material and I went to check out the fitness center and did a workout on the treadmill and used the free weights.
It was an NFL play-off game day so my goal for late afternoon was to find a spot to watch the game in one of the many bars that had wide-screen TV’s throughout the ship. I showered back at the room after my workout and decided to try the District Brew House which was located just outside our Deck 8 stateroom corridor. When I arrived it was already crowded but I grabbed a beer and hovered along a wall waiting to see if a table spot would open up. As I was standing there sipping my beer, I started talking to three other ladies who were traveling together from New Jersey who had the same idea – pounce on a table once someone left!! Luckily, a table opened up and they invited me to join them. Although they were routing for Kansas City (and I was hoping for a Ravens win), we had fun conversing and sharing each others stories. They were a lot of fun and we had some good laughs! I ran into them several times throughout the cruise.
I went back to the room at half-time since it was obvious my team was going to lose and connected with Mom and my sister, Vicki. She was feeling better and we decided to dine at Savor. I had the flounder embellished with an arugula salad and carrot cake for dessert. It was scrumptious!!
After dinner, we had a busy night hopping from one venue to the next. We enjoyed a comedy act with Brandon Vestal at the The Social comedy club, listened to the country music band Lili Band at the “Q” Steakhouse and ended the night with some easy listening piano music with “Paula” in the Observation Lounge.
After just one day, I was definitely getting into the rhythm and culture of “cruising”! 🙂
January 29, 2024
Last night, we looked over the Freestyle Daily for today and circled our favorite options so we woke in the morning with a plan of action. It was another full day at sea to explore the ship and take in some of the activities on board.
We ate breakfast at the Garden Cafe buffet and I opted for a “made-to-order” omelet!
We parted ways after breakfast with a plan to join up in the Atrium for the line dancing class at 11:45am. I went to workout at the fitness center again as I was determined to keep up my normal exercise routine!
The line dancing class was fun even though the dance floor was kind of crowded and the timing was such that we headed back to The Local afterwards for lunch. After lunch, my sister and I decided to get into our bathing suits and see if we could find a spot in one of the many hot tubs located on the upper decks. We finally found a less crowded hot tub on Deck 17 – the Sun Deck. We only had one or two other folks sharing the space with us at a time and had some nice conversations with a Canadian couple and a retired teacher from Brooklyn.
In addition to our complimentary dining package, we purchased three “specialty dinners”. These restaurants required reservations and each one offered a specific ethnic focus. Our first specialty dinner was tonight at the Food Republic – serving up Asian fare and specializing in sushi. We could choose 4 different dishes each and it was an insane amount of food!
We had another busy night of venues ahead of us! We hit The Social comedy club at 7:30pm to get some more laughs from comedian Orlando Leyba and at 9:00pm we headed to the Bliss Theater to see a Beatles tribute band their performance The Beatles Experience: Beatlemania. This performance focused on the early years of the Beatles and it was spectacular!! The Bliss Theater is an 840+ seat performance venue and we would be back there a few more times for other shows.
After the show, we went back to the room for an early night since our Cartagena port excursion would be leaving in the early morning.
January 30, 2024 – Cartagena, Columbia
I was excited to be getting to our first port of call and woke up early as we were pulling into the Port of Cartagena. It was not surprising to see all the containers piled up on shore.
This morning was my mother’s day for not feeling well and she opted to forego the excursion and rest on the ship. My sister and I arrived at The Local for an early 5:30am breakfast before heading to the rendezvous location where we would meet others in our specific tour group. Most excursions had a meeting point in the Bliss Theater where we would leave to descend to Deck 4 to disembark the ship. Our tour left at 7am and the whole process was very well organized. Our excursion was titled “Let’s Take a Selfie” and the focus was on key historical landmarks and areas where we could “take a selfie”. Most of the excursions were about 4 hours and this one was no exception. Our tour guide, Charlie, focused his talk on the history of the city as our bus took us to the Walled City area and the Fuerte de San Felipe de Barajas. Both sites are now UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Columbia is known for several things – rum, chocolate and coffee – and we would be getting a “tasting” of each along the way. I will say that our tour guide warned us before we exited the bus that we would be bombarded with street vendors and we should beware of pick pocketers. He told us to just be polite to the street vendors and say “no, gracias” and that is precisely what we did over and over that morning!
The Walled City is located within about eleven kilometers of fortress walls that were built in the late 1500’s to protect the city from pirates and foreign entities. It is filled with narrow, cobblestone streets and colorful, colonial architecture. Our first stop was in the part of the walled city that was – how shall I say – less cultured and affluent. It is an area known as the Getsemani district. I was drawn to the narrow streets, the prevalence of colorful wall murals and the unassuming architecture.
We stopped at the Plaza de la Trinidad to view an ancient 1600’s church, the Iglesia de la Santísima Trinidad and take some photographs.
In the plaza are two statues that have historical significance. The man with the fist raised is Pedro Romero. He was a blacksmith who lead the struggle for independence from Spain in 1811 with a movement that began in this plaza. To his left is the Franciscan priest Father Umaña.
This whole area of the Getsemani neighborhood has a real bohemian feel and is known for the many street vendors lining the streets.
The mural below is significant as it represents a blackbird called Maria Mulata which I read is the official bird of Cartagena.
We left the Walled City for a brief stop at the Fuerte de San Felipe de Barajas. I had thought we would have time to climb to the top of the fort for a bird’s eye view of the city but that was not to be. We had only 15 minutes to grab a coupe of photos. The fort was built in 1536 and underwent several expansions in the 1600’s under Spanish rule. It was built on a high spot called San Lázaro and proved to be a strategic military location for protecting the area. As was typical of this area and much of Central American, slave labor from Africa was used in the construction of many of these historical landmarks. This theme repeated itself in almost every port we visited.
We left the fort and headed back to the more upscale section of the Walled City. Here we strolled through the streets, visited the Plaza de Santo Domingo, viewed the Catedral de Santa Catalina de Alejandría and wandered around the Plaza de la Aduana. We also viewed the Santuario de San Pedro Claver from the ourside. It was a whirlwind tour along busy streets crowded with tourists!!
Sadly, I read where this plaza was the site of many executions of Jewish people and non-Catholics during the Spanish Inquisition. We left this plaza and walked the streets heading towards the Plaza de Bolivar.
Our tour guide pointed out some of the decorations of the buildings throughout this area. On certain buildings, the decorations were in the form of frogs, mermaids, lions and other symbols. These status of the people who resided in these buildings was represented by the symbol that embellished their outside walls and doorways.
Just before reaching the Plaza de Bolivar, we stopped to watch this street art vendor produce one of this pieces.
From here, we walked to an emerald museum and shop where we could use the restrooms and listen to a short talk about the emerald industry in Columbia.
Once we all had completed the rest stop, we ventured over to the Catedral de Santa Catalina de Alejandría in the Plaza de la Proclamacion and were allowed to go inside.
From here we moved on to the Plaza de la Aduana – the city square that served as the administrative center during the colonial period.
Our last landmark was a short walk from Plaza de la Aduana to the Santuario de San Pedro Claver. This is a 16th century church named for an early canonized abolitionist. It was built over a span of 80 years starting in 1580 and is home to an archaeological museum as well.
Finally, we were getting to the end of our tour but, before heading back to the ship, stopped off at a couple of places for our tastings. We visited a small cafe where they gave us all a sample of some very strong Columbian coffee! And, from there we visited a chocolate shop where we were treated to a shot of rum and some exceptional chocolate. We also got a brief talk on the chocolate industry in Columbia.
We were dropped off near the port and had to walk through a small nature area to get back to the ship. It was fun to see some of the native animals on display here.
It felt good to be getting back on board the ship and relax after the snapshot tour of Cartagena. We were tired from all the walking and also hungry for some lunch!
We got back to the ship around 12:30pm and went to the Observation Lounge to grab a lunch snack and sit for a while.
Dinner that night was at the Manhattan restaurant. Mom was still feeling under the weather so my sister and I dined there and then sat in the Atrium listening to a 50’s and 60’s band before heading back to the stateroom for an early evening. Tomorrow would be our Panama Canal Transit and I definitely wanted to be up early so I would not miss anything!
Panama Canal Cruise
I’m back! I’ve taken a hiatus from my blog to get caught up on other things. My last post was shortly before a 15-day cruise that took me through the Panama Canal. When I returned, I had to focus on a few rather mundane but necessary tasks ranging from medical appointments to house renovations.
It’s taken me awhile to get through all the photographs (both on my camera and iPhone) taken on the cruise but I’m making headway! I’ll break my Panama Canal cruise into a few posts depending on my time over the next week.
During the winter of 2023, when I was deep into planning my Le Puy Camino de Santiago trip, I received a call from my sister inviting me to join her and our mother on a cruise through the Panama Canal. She had a friend who had taken this trip through the canal and it came highly recommended. In addition, while my mother has traveled the world extensively, one of the remaining items on her bucket list was visiting the Panama Canal. People who know me can attest to the fact that I have in the past often said I would NEVER, EVER go on a cruise – just not my idea of a good time. I prefer to be on land (or on lakes and rivers in my kayak or canoe) and surrounded by nature and solitude. So, it probably surprised no one more than me that I answered in the affirmative! I wasn’t sure when I would get the opportunity to travel with both my sister and mother together and I admit the allure of seeing the canal was hard to pass up.
After agreeing to go, I promptly forgot about the cruise since it was a year out and focused on my Camino walk. But, as soon as September rolled around and we had to pay our balance due on the cruise and begin planning our port excursions, it hit me that I had better start planning. I literally had no expectations since I’d never experienced life on a cruise ship and vowed to keep an open mind and enjoy the ride! I had many questions though – most importantly – how does one pack for a 15-day cruise!?
Luckily, there is no shortage of information on the internet regarding all aspects of cruising. I reviewed several cruise line websites and blogs for advice on packing and came up with my own personalized packing list that would allow me to keep it light and get away with just a carry-on bag and a personal-sized bag. Of particular importance was keeping the clothing lightweight. The temperatures would be warm and in some cases hot. I’m no fashionista and never have been but I felt the pressure to up my game a little in that regard. So, I planned my packing list with care and attention to bringing items that gave me at least the illusion of fitting in with this crowd. 🙂
Cruise Packing List
1 dress (for specialty or evening dinners)
1 skirt (Ripskirt Hawaii brand) and 2 pair of skorts
4 pair of leggings (assorted colors) – one dedicated to work-outs in the onboard fitness center
2 pairs of jeans – one blue jean and one black pair for dress
8 assorted shirts – lightweight long sleeve for sun protection, sleeveless for hot weather and one collared lightweight hiking shirt
2 T-shirts (and I bought a couple as souvenirs along the way!)
3 cardigan/shawl tops – two lightweight fabric and one sweater-style
3 shelf-bra cotton camisoles and 2 regular bras
5 pairs of underwear
4 pairs of sneaker socks
Rain jacket
Bathing suit and cover-up
2 pairs of sandals – one informal pair of Tevas and one dress pair – and 1 pair of Saucony sneakers
A small first aid kit
1 small backpack for excursions (Osprey Ultralite Stuff Pack)
1 small travel waist bag for important documents/money/credit cards
1 reusable water bottle
1 travel-size camera (Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS100) and my iPhone
All of the above fit in my carry-on bag and my personal-size bag – and I still had some room for the few souvenirs purchased along the way! I actually used most of the above items – probably could have managed with fewer shirts – but all in all, this list worked for me. We did receive one complimentary laundry and I handwashed items as necessary. The shower in each stateroom has a pull-out clothesline. ( I also noticed that some folks brought along a collapsible clothes drying rack that they discreetly placed on their balcony. )
The Cruise Line
Our cruise was booked through Norwegian Cruise Line and we were aboard the cruise ship Bliss. The Bliss has a capacity of up to 4,000 passengers and 1,700 crew members! We were slightly under these numbers but not by much! It is a BIG ship! It’s maiden voyage (with passengers) was on June 2, 2018 – so it’s a relatively new ship I suppose? Apparently, the Bliss was the first cruise ship of that size to pass through the Panama Canal in 2018 during its inaugural voyage from New York to Seattle – which is now considered it’s home port. Marine wildlife artist Robert Wyland designed and painted the hull of the Bliss. He’s known for his “Whale Murals” which don buildings all over the world. Oddly, I did not get one full photo of the entire ship with the whale mural on the bow – so you’ll just have to access here to see it! 🙂
Currently, the Bliss travels mostly between Miami and Seattle – transiting the Panama Canal during the winter months and cruising the Mexican Riviera while, in the summer months, it makes excursions to Alaska from Seattle.
Our Trip – Day by Day
January 26, 2024 – Arrive in Miami
Our overall trip including air travel was from January 26, 2024 through February 12, 2024. The cruise started in the Port of Miami so the first order of business was to get there. My mother, sister and I were traveling from different parts of the country and decided to arrive the day before the cruise was set to depart. We wanted to ensure that if we encountered any delays we had time to make alternate flights. Coming from the far Northeast, weather delays in particular that time of year were entirely possible.
My flight left Boston’s Logan Airport at 7am in the morning on the 26th. I had two options to get there at that time from Vermont – take the earliest Dartmouth Coach out of Lebanon, NH (3:30am) which would make it tight to get through security and to the gate on time – or – drive to southern New Hampshire and spend the night at my son’s house and hop a ride with him to the airport. It still meant getting up at 3:30am so that I could arrive at the airport at the suggested 2-hours before departure. Since the weather in Vermont was calling for potential freezing rain/snow, I opted for the later. It would just be rain in Southern NH. It turned out to be great way to start the trip. My son and I drove to Logan in the wee hours of the morning and I got his undivided attention for 1 1/2 hours! We don’t often get a chance to visit just one-on-one – good company and good conversation!
My sister flew from Sacramento, CA which meant an overnight flight for her and my mother flew from Philadelphia. We arranged reservations at a hotel near the airport that offered free shuttles. Unfortunately, the cruise line flight reservations for my sister took her into Fort Lauderdale so she had to grab an Uber down to the hotel near the Port of Miami. It was nice to rest up in the hotel the day before departure on the cruise. My sister and I arrived mid-day so we enjoyed lunch together at the hotel. Since she had flown overnight, she opted to take a nap in the room after lunch and I headed for the fitness center to get some exercise. My mom’s flight arrived early evening so we waited for her to land at the hotel and then treated her to dinner. It just so happens that it was her birthday!
January 27, 2024 – Board ship and Depart
Because the cruise staff had to onboard close to 4,000 passengers, we had to reserve a timeslot for checking in at the ship. We chose the earliest time slot which was 11:00am. We woke up at 7am for breakfast and arranged an Uber to the Port of Miami. As we were putting our luggage in the Uber vehicle, a German couple who were also headed to the Bliss asked to join us. There was plenty of room so we welcomed them along. The traffic was horrendous between the hotel and the port. Kudos to our female Uber driver who altered her course several times – winding through the streets of Miami – to get us there on time!
Once we arrived at the Bliss boarding location at the Port of Miami, we surrendered our bags (to be brought to our stateroom later) and headed inside to the check-in area. Since the walking distances to get from check-in to actually boarding the ship were fairly long, we requested wheelchair assistance for our mother. This delayed us somewhat as we had to wait our turn. They had limited personnel operating the wheelchairs due to the ship arriving late in port. But, it turned out that this also meant we were able to go through priority check-in and we made it onto the ship without waiting in the long lines at the check-in counters.
At check-in we were each presented with a “key card” that would be our ticket for all things on board. It gave us access to our stateroom, was used at dining venues to indicate our package amenities (complimentary dining and unlimited drinks) and served as our identification when leaving the ship for excursions. Since pretty much everything on board the ship was included in our package price, we needed no cash on the ship. If we wanted to make a purchase from one of the market places, we used our “key card” and that purchase was automatically added to our “account” which was tied to a pre-designated credit card. At the end of the cruise, any additional fees were reconciled upon check-out. I thought it was a pretty good system. We had a TV channel in our room where we could access our individual accounts throughout the cruise.
It was approaching 1:00pm when we finally got on board the ship and we were hungry and thirsty! Our wheelchair operator kindly stayed with us and took us straight up to the Garden Cafe Buffet – the only restaurant offering food at this time. Needless to say, the restaurant was packed with like-minded, hungry passengers but we found a table and settled in. The buffet was overwhelming with the amount of choices displayed to us! At 3:00 pm, we heard over the loudspeaker that the staterooms on Deck 8 were ready to be occupied. That’s us!! I couldn’t wait to see the accommodations!
Our luggage was propped up directly outside our stateroom and we grabbed it and headed into the room to check it out. Remember I said that is was my mother’s birthday on the 26th? My sister and I secretly arranged with the cruise staff to have the room decorated for her birthday – complete with a cake.
Adjacent to the two beds, there was a sofa that converts to a bed. In this room, there was also an optional pull-down “bunk” bed to accommodate one other person, if needed. There are different levels of accommodations – from inside cabins with no balcony to luxurious suites in The Haven. We had a middle of the road accommodation that came with a slightly larger balcony. It was plenty of room for the 3 of us with lots of closets and drawers so each of us had our own space for clothing. All in all, I was extremely happy with the room.
After unpacking, we headed up to Deck 16 where the outdoor pool is located. There was a “Sail Away” party commencing and we wanted to grab a table, a drink and watch the festivities.
I chose to get into the action around the stage because they were throwing out free T-shirts to the crowd! Who can resist the chance to get a freebie?! And, guess what? I was lucky enough to have one of the T-shirts sail my way and I caught it! Fun!
We sat and enjoyed the festivities while sipping on some scrumptious Margaritas and waited for the ship to depart port. It was a beautiful, warm evening and the excitement on the ship was palpable. As we were sitting and gazing out the window, I could see that we were anchored right next to the famed Icon of the Seas – a new cruise ship that was heading out on its maiden voyage. Icon of the Seas is a member of the Royal Caribbean fleet and is the largest cruise ship in the world with a maximum capacity of 7600 passengers. Unbelievable! I met a family in the hotel who were booked on this ship. I’m not sure I would want to cruise on a maiden voyage??
As the Bliss got underway, we wandered around Deck 16 and 17 and I got some photos of the Miami skyline as well sailed out of port.
After we left port, we headed back up to the Garden Cafe for a buffet dinner. I chose to select items from the Asian counter – and it was delicious!!
Since this post ended up so lengthy – I’ll end here and follow up on the next post!
Snowy Oak
When we first moved to Vermont, there were no oak trees growing naturally or in the forest on our property – or for that matter – anywhere near us. I’m not sure why. They are certainly hardy here and they do grow naturally along the Connecticut River Valley. Maybe the widespread logging industry in the 1800’s stripped this area of oaks?? I’ve always been puzzled by it.
We began a campaign to add oaks to our property when my son, Luke, and I visited our home state of Pennsylvania some years back. On our way back to Vermont, we stopped at a rest area in Northern Pennsylvania and noticed an abundance of oaks – of all varieties. We scooped up a bunch of partially sprouted acorns laying on the ground beneath the oaks and brought them back to Vermont to plant. They happily sprouted and grew into sizable saplings that we later transplanted around the property.
The tree above was actually not one of those trees but another one that my husband and son transplanted from someone else’s property. It has turned into a nice Red Oak specimen that has been lovingly managed by my arborist husband. Even in a winter’s snowstorm, it stands regal.
Le Puy Camino – via Podiensis: Golinhac to Conques
April 13, 2023
My room at the Hôtel La Bastide d’Olt was ready shortly after finishing up my beer in the bar. At around 54 euros each for the “demi-pension”, this place was a real bargain. Our room was actually on 2 levels – one main room with a double bed and bath and a loft that included two twin beds. I chose to occupy the loft area since the stairs were pretty steep. The loft was quite cozy!!
When Susan arrived and we had both had our showers and rested up, we walked the short distance to a small épicerie to purchase provisions for tomorrow’s walk. There was a light rain falling that continued for much of the night. We returned to the hotel and had time for a glass of wine in the bar before dinner was served.
I wrote that dinner was a choice of either a meat pie or chicken with side dishes followed by a tart for dessert. I had the chicken and it was an excellent meal. There were a few guests at the hotel that night and the atmosphere was festive. There was something about the tiny hamlet of Golinhac that really caught my fancy.
My window in the loft looked out onto the Eglise de Golinhac and the bell tower was lit up at night. It was a very pretty sight.
Tomorrow would be a 20 kilometer walk to reach the medieval town of Conques so a good night’s sleep was essential!
April 13, 2023
This morning we woke up to a damp day in which we would experience rain, sleet and sun all in one day!! But first, we headed down to breakfast to get fueled up! It was a typical French breakfast of fresh baked bread, croissants, jam, yogurt, juice and fresh fruit.
Planning Tip: I usually consulted my Miam Miam Dodo guide while enjoying breakfast. I liked to look at the map and see what kind of terrain to expect as well as where the villages were and potential spots to get refills of water. I also like to know in advance if there are any interesting landmarks and churches that I want to be sure to see.
It appears we will be passing through a couple of small towns before reaching our destination of Conques. Because of the rainy weather, we were warned that the steep descent into Conques could be treacherous and were advised to consider diverting onto the paved road at some point. I decided to see how things developed throughout the day before making a decision as to my route. Susan was pretty sure she would leave the GR65 and walk the road at some point.
After we left the hotel, we stopped at the overlook directly across the street from the hotel. It was a misty, cloudy morning and the effect was dramatic on the view.
We stopped by the church on our way out of town. I liked the bell tower framed by a tree coming out in leaf.
It was a hilly day’s hike starting with an uphill climb from Golinhac. The temperature’s were cooler and I needed my raingear on most of the day. It was still a beautifully dramatic walk through the French countryside with some sweet towns and interesting objects along the Way.
The walk was a mixture of secondary roads and dirt pathways with some stream crossings. We passed by some agricultural pastures between Golinhac and Espeyrac as well.
I saw in the Miam Miam Dodo that there is an accommodation in the tiny settlement of Le Soulié that I passed by. I interpreted from the Miam Miam Dodo write-up that a stay is by donation and it is a dormitory-style accommodation run by a previous “pèlerin.” I had to laugh at the description of a separate room available for 1 person “pour ronfleur” – translated to mean for a person who snores!! :)
Before the final push into the village of Espeyrac, I crossed a stream. There was the most unusual “musical” instrument deposited here! There were instructions on the instrument with steps to make it “play music.”
As I was trying to understand the instructions, which involved turning the crank handle a number of times, I was joined by another pilgrim and his walking partner. Together, we tried to figure it out. He cranked the requisite number of times but nothing happened. :(
After several attempts, we shrugged our shoulders and decided it was broken. He, then, very kindly offered to take my picture by the contraption and I took him up on it.
After crossing the stream, the path ascended slightly and I could see the village of Espeyrac nestled in the valley down below.
Espeyrac is a sweet little village with a lot of character and tons of architectural details that caught my eye. A sampling of what attracted me:
Leaving the village, I passed by an expansive walled cemetery on the hillside.
At the top of the ascent from Espeyrac where there is a sharp turn in the trail, there was an abandoned, overgrown building that evoked a sense of sadness to me. At one time, it must have been a beautiful place with a commanding view of the town and landscape below.
Before coming to the next town of Sènergues, a mere 2.8 kilometers from Espeyrac, I passed through some open country and rolling hills. The damp day made the green hillsides really pop out.
The ascent to the outskirts of Sènergues brought me to another large, wall cemetery. I took the time to explore inside the gate and take a break.
After passing the cemetery, the road leads in the town of Sènergues. The square tower structure is part of the Château de Sènergues. According to the castle website, the building was contructed in 1385 by Aymeric de Senrgues during the Hundred Years War. It’s purpose was to serve as a refuge for the town inhabitants. It is said that the castle is still owned by descendants of the original Senrgues.
The village has a similar charm as Espeyrac and many amenities such as an épicerie, post office, restaurant and lodging.
I left Sènergues behind and started the last leg of the journey to my destination of Conques. With still over 9 kilometers to go and the weather threatening, I stepped up the pace a bit. The walk between Sènergues and Conques was through mostly open countryside and the views were spectacular, even given the cloud cover.
The GR65 was “roughly” following a paved road on this section called the D42. I reached a point where the D42 took a left turn and the GR65 followed a dirt trail. This is where I needed to make a decision – take the road and avoid a potentially treacherous, rocky descent in Conques or take my chances on the trail. The road would add many more kilometers to a day that would already rack up 20 kilometers. It wasn’t raining much at this point and I decided to take my time and go the short route along the dirt trail. I’ve hiked many slippery trails back home and was confident I could negotiate the path. I would just be careful and pick my steps carefully!
The GR65 continued along a more secondary paved road for quite a distance and I passed by an ancient church called St. Marcel. The church dates to 1561 and I read where there was a leprosarium located here in the 17th and 18th centuries.
Once past Saint Marcel, I came to the dirt footpath that is the original GR 65 leading into Conques. I would soon find out whether my decision to take the path was a smart choice! It was a very steep descent and wet but I found that it was not as “treacherous” as people portrayed it to be.
It was along this stretch of the trail that I encountered my first really scary moment. I was gingerly making my way down the trail being very careful about foot placement. Up ahead of me, I could see another foot path crossing the trail I was on. As I was approaching the intersection, a very large, fierce-looking dog rounded the corner from the other trail and – seeing me – charged in my direction with teeth baring. That got my adrenaline pumping. I started yelling – going between English and French – “call your dog” and, then, “appelle ton chien”! I also tried just yelling at the dog – Arrêt! The dog pulled up slightly and, after what seemed an eternity, a woman appeared and called the dog off. I was so happy to see her!! And, relieved!! She apologized over and over – I muttered “It’s okay” and, shakily, continued down the trail.
It was the only time I experienced an aggressive dog along the Way – so given the kilometers we logged I guess I can say that’s pretty good!
I eventually came to the outskirts of Conques and came upon this sign that describes the plight of Saint Foy (Saint Faith) and how it impacted the settlement of the town of Conques. From here, I stayed on the path that led to the cobblestone streets of Conques.
Lots more to come regarding our overnight stay in Conques – stay tuned!!
Indoor Geraniums
As I watch the snow fall outside at a rate of about 1″ per hour, I thought I’d take some photographs of my indoor geraniums to lift my spirits! I hate being cooped up inside and playing with my camera always moves my focus towards a more positive viewpoint!
I realize I’ve been somewhat inattentive to posting more regularly lately but I’ve been sidetracked doing some volunteer work for our local historical society. I’ve been cataloguing and uploading digitized historical photographs from our historical society collection onto our new website. Yesterday, I completed my work on this project. So, hopefully, I’ll have a better presence here!
One more photograph – the sunrise below was taken on 1/9/2024 – it’s true what they say about “red sky in the morning, sailors take warning”. This was the day we enjoyed another storm coming our way – only it was rain instead of snow. :(
Le Puy Camino – via Podiensis: Estaing to Golinhac
April 11 and April 12, 2023
As I continued my walk along the Lot River towards Estaing, the picturesque city exploded into view with the 15th-century Château d’Estaing rising up above the other buildings – taking center stage. As I approached the bridge that crosses the Lot River into the village, I noticed that the GR65 takes a left turn here instead of going right over the bridge and into the town. I will remember that for tomorrow’s hike!
The hotel I booked accommodations for this night could not have been easier to find! It was located just across the street from the bridge as I entered the town. Since it was about the time when I should be able to check in, I approached the door to the hotel but found it locked with a note that stated it would not re-open until 5pm. I thought this was unusual since it was also a restaurant and bar. Most accommodations also allowed check-ins starting at 3pm. I walked around the town for a bit and noticed all other restaurants and outdoor cafes were open which added to my concern. My arrival at this establishment only got weirder!
When I walked back to the hotel, it was still dark inside and I wandered around the outside of the building to see if there was another entrance. I must have had a concerned look on my face because a female passer-by stopped and asked if I needed assistance. I explained my predicament and she walked up to the front door of the hotel and pressed a bell (that I had not noticed before now). A few minutes later, a woman appeared walking down the inside stairs. She seemed a bit frazzled (I suspect we woke her up) but let me in and I told her I had a reservation. At first, she seemed confused. She opened a reservation book and asked again what my name was. It turns out that in making the reservations over the phone, they had misinterpreted what my name was and had a different version of my name written down. We determined that I was indeed the person with the reservation after a few minutes and she agreed to let me check-in.
I asked about our additional luggage that should have been delivered and she led me to a building several doors down from the hotel where the baggage was stashed. That also seemed odd. But, I was able to check in so I was happy. We were located on the third floor and had a very nicely appointed (albeit old-fashioned) room with a small balcony overlooking the Lot River. At 77.50 euros demi-pension each for the night, it was expected that the room and dinner should be exceptional! All of the other cheaper accommodations in town were booked which forced us to stay here. The other very odd observation I made was that we were the only guests in this hotel. As we ascended the stairs to our room, there were linens and such scattered in the hallways and some corridors were blocked off. I chose not to think about why this was – our room was nice and that’s all that mattered to me! I did wonder how dinner would be??
As soon as I got settled in the room, I washed out some clothes and set up a clothesline on the balcony. The sun was shining and I was sure my clothes would dry nicely even with though we were on the backside of the afternoon.
After showering and a change of clothes, I decided to explore the town. In particular, I was looking for the local pharmacy and also an épicerie where I could pick up items for the next day’s walk. At the pharmacy, my goal was to find a small pair of scissors and some dental floss for Susan. I was successful! I also purchased some extra band-aids since I was still being cautious and bandaging my little toe to prevent the blister from returning.
Estaing is one of the prettiest towns along our route. The village is a member of an organization that supports tourism in the many small rural towns in France – Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. There is a rigorous process involved in being considered for this designation so visitors can be assured that a village with this label is worthy.
The famed 11th century Château d’Estaing dominates the skyline and was purchased in 2005 by a former French president, Valéry Giscard, and his extended family. Prior to his death in 2020, he set up a foundation that would allow for the maintenance and preservation of this medieval castle. As I walked along the narrow streets, I could imagine what it must have been like to live here in medieval times.
After visiting the pharmacy and scoping out the épicerie, I made a detour on one of the side streets to visit the 15th century church – L’église Saint-Fleuret. The church is named for the saint who supposedly brought Christianity to Estaing back in the year 621. At the base of the stairs leading up to the entrance to the church, there is a really cool cobblestone mosaic with a heart outlined in dark stones.
I headed back to the hotel after visiting the church and eventually connected with Susan. We relaxed and walked around the town while we waited for dinner at 7pm. Our meal was superb! I don’t usually take “food” pictures but the presentation of this meal with the whole fish intact is not something I’m used to!! It was a beautiful dining room and I was still amazed that we were the only guests!
The evening after dinner was spent walking along the waterfront and then retiring for a restful night. Our walk to Golinhac the next day would be around 15 kilometers.
On the way out of town the next morning, we stopped for some pictures on the bridge across the Lot River – which was designated in 1998 a UNESCO World Heritage Site along the Santiago de Compostela in France.
For the first 2 or 3 kilometers, the GR65 follows the Lot River with some nice views of the river below. I even spotted some kayakers on the river! My photos of them were too blurry to post! At about the 3 kilometer mark, the trail starts a steady and, at times, steep ascent for a duration of about 3 kilometers. I was glad to have this section of the trail at the beginning of the day!!
This section of the way travels a combination of secondary paved roads and primitive dirt trail. The trail, at times, crisscrosses the roadway as it climbs a small mountain.
When I reached the top of the 3 kilometer ascent, who did I see but Susan?! She had taken a slower morning in Estaing and then caught a taxi to avoid the steepest part of this trail. It was fun to see her walking up ahead of me!
The scenery at the top of the ascent was spectacular! We could see for miles! While we did not see the sun today, it was still good visibility across the landscape.
Susan and I walked together for a spell and eventually we stopped to take a break at a wayside rest area for pilgrims. There was a funny border collie who greeted pilgrims as they rested!
An interpretive sign along the road offered an insight into the past uses of this landscape – le paysage. It appears goats dominated the fields and a certain form of goat cheese was produced. Also, on the southern slopes, grapes and other food crops were farmed.
Susan and I parted ways eventually and I continued on alone. The rest of the way to Golinhac was fairly easy terrain – just some minor ups and downs and lots of open country.
The sign above invites pilgrims to open their minds to the wonders of Nature – part of the above translates to “open unsuspected doors and let all the beauty of the world of life flow into you, of the miracle of being alive and being able to experience these moments of fullness and happiness, moments outside of time, outside of everyday life, an invitation to live, to Relive the joy and magic of life and connection to Nature.”
Near Golinhac, the trail passes right by some local farm buildings and I just fell in love with this wall of bird houses!!
I arrived in Golinhac at about 1:30pm – not bad timing considering all the hills today!! I also got to the lodging just before it started to rain! Perfect! Our accommodations for the night were in an old inn called La Bastide d’Olt. I knew it was a bit early for check-in but I went into the bar/restaurant and announced my arrival. The room was not quite ready yet but I was invited to sit and have a drink while I waited for it to be available – which I happily did!! It was a lively little pub and the atmosphere was so very friendly!
More to come on the room, the evening and tomorrow’s hike!
Holiday Traditions 12.26.23
I hope everyone who celebrates had a peaceful, relaxing Christmas with family and friends. Jim and I spent the last couple of days sharing the holiday with my older son and his wife. It’s always a great visit full of good conversation, food! and relaxation. While visiting them I never bring a book from home because I always find it fun and informative to peruse their bookshelves and discover new reading material.
Sitting on a table by their sofa one morning while quietly sipping my coffee, I noticed a small little book titled The Four Agreements – A Toltec Wisdom Book. Based on the ancient Mexican Toltec civilization dating to between the 10th and 12th centuries, the book relates to the reader Four Agreements with which we should strive to adopt throughout our lives.
The Toltec civilization was admired for their mystical, spiritual ways and teachings as well as their art. They believed the way a person lived their lives was their “art” – an extraordinarily insightful way of thinking in my humble opinion.
A quote at the beginning of the book captured my attention – and kept me reading: ”Living is easy with eyes closed, misunderstanding all you see” – John Lennon
At this time of year, when we are all making our New Year resolutions, I think I will focus on the Four Agreements:
“Be Impeccable with your word – speak with integrity and use the power of your word in the direction of truth and love,
Don’t take anything personally – when you are immune to the opinions and actions of others, you won’t be the victim of needless suffering,
Don’t make assumptions – communicate with others as clearly as you can to avoid misunderstandings, sadness and drama, and
Always do your best – under any circumstances, simply do your best, and you will avoid self-judgement, self-abuse and regret.” From The Four Agreements, by Don Miquel Ruiz
May the New Year bring peace, truth, and stability to all our lives – both here in the United States and abroad.
Lynn Amber - Travel & Photography 