Cinque Terre Hiking Trip – Day 1

Le Grazie harbor

About a year ago, on a whim, I signed up for a Road Scholar group tour entitled “Hiking the Cinque Terre.” I had been researching the possibility of hiking the trails of the “Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre” for a few years. It was one of those places that immediately attracted me when I first heard of the trail that connects the five villages along this rugged coast. At the time I signed up for the group tour, my husband was not interested in flying overseas. Group tours do not usually excite me. I prefer the spontaneity of traveling without a set schedule or according to someone else’s schedule. But, since I would be flying solo on this one, I decided to take a chance on a tour group.

I was apprehensive about hiking with a group of people and, particularly, strangers. I generally like to hike on my own or with just a couple of people and prefer to set my own pace – allowing for breaks for photography or plant hunting – as I desire. So, it would be a challenge to alter my hiking style and I wasn’t sure I would enjoy it.

On October 11, 2025, I boarded a plane at Boston’s Logan Airport and headed to Pisa, Italy via a lay-over in Frankfurt, Germany. I arrived a day earlier than the program start date due to requesting a better flight and therefore I had to book an Air BandB at my own expense for the first night. Since I had booked the flights through Road Scholar, they provided the transport from Pisa to our program location in Le Grazie and I just needed to meet the group the next morning back at the airport. My bed and breakfast was walking distance to the airport and this all went well without a hitch!

We arrived in Le Grazie on October 12, 2025 late morning and checked into our rooms at the Hotel della Baia. We would use this hotel as our home base for our daily hiking excursions through the Cinque Terre region. The hotel was absolutely wonderful. My room was on the ground floor and included a small patio facing the harbor. As a solo traveler, I did pay for a double room as part of my overall fee for the trip even though I was a single occupant. But, it was worth it to me to have my own space at the end of a long day of hiking. As an self-described introvert, I need that alone time to decompress! Since the program did not officially start until 6pm (with a lecture and group dinner,) we were free to explore the small village of Le Grazie on our own for the afternoon.

After unloading my baggage in the room, I was anxious to walk around the village! It was such a vibrant, blue sky kind of day and warm and I’d never seen anything like the architecture visible from the bus as we entered the town. I needed to see it up close and personal! Across the side street from the hotel, there is a wide pedestrian walkway and it extends all the way around the harbor.

View of a marina from the hotel
Looking across the harbor from the hotel

It was a beautiful, warm, sunny Sunday afternoon and the waterfront was alive with people enjoying the weather and sun-bathing along the water. It was almost shocking to see people in such skimpy beach attire soaking up the sun! Clearly, Europeans are not as body conscious as us Americans! And, with all the hype about skin cancer in the U.S., I’m not used to seeing people sun-bathing with such abandon! I walked from the hotel along the waterfront past small parks and all the way to the opposite side of the harbor.

Most towns in Europe have memorials to the World Wars fought here.
Looking back across the harbor towards the hotel

I noticed a small alley way that led to an ancient Roman archaeological site – Villa romana del Varignano Vecchio – and followed it uphill to see what it was. It was closed when I arrived and I would not get another opportunity to explore it. It was the site of the oldest olive oil mill in the province of Liguria.

Alley leading up to the ruins
Sign explaining the ruins

I walked along the narrow path that skirted the perimeter of the ruins until I reached a dead end. It was good to just stretch my legs after the long flight and bus ride to Le Grazie!

Path that connected properties high above the harbor
Pleasant walk by the archaeological site

At the dead end, I turned around and made my way back to the narrow alley way and started back down to the harbor. Part way down, I noticed an open gate on my right and decided to see what lay beyond! To my surprise, it was a cemetery! If you’ve seen previous posts of mine, you know I am fascinated with cemeteries and love to explore them. I wandered around through multiple terraces of stone memorials thinking that it would lead to the church I had seen from the harbor. I never saw a connection to the church but it was a lovely spot and the view of the harbor was spectacular.

Back down by the harbor, I found the entrance path that lead to the church – Santuario di Nostra Signora delle Grazie – Sanctuary of our Lady of Grace. Parts of the church and cloister date to the 1500’s – oh my! What was once part of a convent is now perhaps private housing?? I could not really tell the present day purpose of the attached building.. but it was simplistic in design and appealing to the eye. More about the history of the church can be found here.

Part of the church building
Interior of the church – lots of marble from the local marble quarries of the region
View from the entrance to the church looking out over the rooftops!
Santuario di Nostra Signora delle Grazie

After walking around the church, it was time to head back to the hotel and get ready for our opening lecture and first group dinner at the hotel. Throughout the week, we enjoyed a complimentary buffet breakfast at the hotel prior to our daily excursions. It was by far the best buffet breakfast I’ve ever had in any hotel I’ve stayed in – daily offerings of mouth-watering scrambled eggs, an assortment of fresh fruit, traditional pastries, yogurt, granola, local jams – and all you can eat. We did consume several evening meals at the hotel as well that were equally tasty!

Cinque Terre Hiking Trip – Preview

Le Grazie, Italy – harbor scene

October 2025

My blog posts have been intermittent for some time now. Sorry!! I have had very limited cell service since last Spring and no convenient internet service. But, I’m back home in Vermont for the foreseeable future and enjoying consistent connectivity! So, I have a lot to catch up on!

The list of posts that need to be written and shared include: the continuation of my Le Puy Camino from Spring of 2023; the trip my husband and I embarked on Spring of 2025 consisting of a cool Danube River boat trip and our Camino Portuguese adventure; and my most recent hiking trip to the Cinque Terre coastline of Italy. I hope to devote a little bit of time every day to editing photographs and drafting commentary – and hopefully get caught up documenting my travels over the coming winter months.

I’ll start off today with a single photograph from my recent trip to the Cinque Terre – just a little snapshot of what’s to come! The photograph above was taken along the pedestrian walkway lining the harbor in Le Grazie, Italy. Le Grazie is one of several towns that line the coast of the Gulf of Poets – also referred to as the Gulf of La Spezia. It is my home base for the next week as I explore the wonders of the Cinque Terre!

The boats in the foreground are commercial boats used in the mussel farming industry that dots the gulf waters. The black barrels float on top of the water and farmers suspend ropes from these barrels. The mussels attach themselves to these ropes and are left there to grow before harvesting. This is an industry that has been active since around 1800 and makes a significant contribution to the local economy.

Le Grazie was my home base for 8 days while exploring the Cinque Terre National Park or the Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre in Italian.

August Sunset on Timothy Lake

Pink skies in August

We’ve had a smokey haze all day due to wildfires to the south of us and it makes for some very pink sunsets.

More Timothy Lake Ducks

Getting scolded by a fellow duck

I’m not sure what provoked the one duck into scolding his fellow log-sitter – but the squabble was amusing!

Lazy Timothy Lake Morning

Enjoying the early morning sun

July 29, 2025

I like to bring my chair and coffee down to the lakeshore early in the morning on my days off. I’m usually greeted by one of the several flocks of ducks that call our campground day use area home. 🙂 They are so chill!!

Timothy Lake 2025 – Sunset

Paddlers on the lake at sunset

We have not had many colorful sunsets at Timothy Lake this summer but this one a few days ago was absolutely spectacular!

Timothy Lake 2025 – Early Wildflowers

Oregon Anemone

Connectivity issues have prevented me from posting for awhile but hoping now that I have a good system to get back to regular posts!

We arrived back at Timothy Lake in the Mt. Hood National Forest for a second year of camp hosting and the early wildflowers blooming in the forest did not disappoint!

Trillium
Yellow Violet – Viola glabella
Cornus × unalaschkensis – Western Bunchberry just starting to bloom
Oregon Grape flower spike

Le Puy Camino – via Podiensis: Moissac to Auvillar

April 27, 2023

It was a long (19.8 km) trek today but also a relatively flat walk along the Canal Latéral de la Garonne between Moissac and Auvillar. It also turned out to be one of the hottest days of our travels.

Some final scenes from Moissac:

An example of the many small épiceries that we encountered along the Way. This one specializes in local products.

Love the small groceries and specialty shops in the villages of Southern France
A final good-bye to the pretty square in Moissac

We reached the canal very quickly and and commenced our journey – happy for what would be a fairly easy, level walk even with the distance. The weather was good and the canal walk afforded plenty of shade due to the massive sycamores lining the path.

Leaving Moissac
Canal Latéral de la Garonne – pilgrims entering the path along the canal and boats lining the edge of the canal

The path hugged the left side of the canal for much of the walk. There were several bridges that spanned the canal and led to small villages along the route. This was definitely one of the most relaxing days on the Way.

Some of my favorite photos of the canal:

Before crossing the bridge that leads to the final 5 kilometers of the walk, I popped into the Église de Pommevic, located in a small village along the canal.

At the village of Pommevic, the GR 65 turns left and crosses over the Canal Latéral de la Garonne and it’s sister Canal de Golfech. At this point, the path is more exposed and it was a hot crossing through some agricultural farm lands.

Farmstand along this backroad – strawberries for sale!!
Flat valley land before reaching Espalais

I took a short break once I reached the town of Espalais. There was a nice park with some shade and I desperately needed a water break and relief from the sun. Reaching the point in the day when you know you are “almost there” is a gratifying feeling and I felt that sitting in the park. The final stretch involved crossing the Garonne River and climbing the steep road to the center of Auvillar – a city built on a hill overlooking the valley below.

The Garonne River – looking across towards Auvillar

Auvillar is another one of the towns in France that has the distinction of being “one of the most beautiful villages” in the country. And it does not disappoint.

Climbing through the streets to the center of town

Auvillar is known for it’s unique brick and limestone architecture. The town dates back to the Roman Empire as evidenced by archeological findings. Into the nineteenth century, Auvillar was known for its ceramic pottery. One peculiar aspect of the town is the many ceramic figures throughout the town – mostly in celebration of the pilgrims who stop here along the Camino de Santiago. They are hard to spot – you need to look up as you walk through town to discover them! Many are located on the corners of buildings – what fun!!

As I was walking around in search of my accommodations for the night, I started down one street and noticed a nice flower display in front of one of the townhouses. When I got closer, I realized it was our lodging for the night – Accueil catholique Les Amis de Saint-Jacques! Unlike most of the other places we stayed, the hostess here required that you show your pilgrim credential – no exceptions! She was a former pilgrim who is a devout catholic and opened this pilgrim lodging as a way to help other pilgrims.

The brick building with the beautiful arched windows and flower display – our lodging – Accueil catholique Les Amis de Saint-Jacques

Monique – our host – has a beautiful accommodation with a nice landscaped backyard with flower gardens and we could also do laundry for an additional 5 euros. At 40 euros for the night, we had a nice dinner and breakfast included in our rate. A great deal!

Resting in the backyard of the lodging surrounded by the resident kitty-cats!!

The rooms were on the upper floor of the house and there was a really nice balcony patio with views over the surrounding rooftops.

I’ll finish up with Auvillar in the next post. We spent a small amount of time in the morning before heading out on the GR65 and visited some of the interesting landmarks in the old part of town.

Pillar Point Bluff 2.27.25

Another great day of exploring the Pacific Coast – this time just north of Half Moon Bay on a cliff above the ocean called Pillar Point Bluff. We are once again dog sitting for our son’s Belgian Malinois “Wylie” and finding dog friendly hikes in the area. This bluff sits above Maverick Beach which is a popular surfing site.

Watching the surfers from above
See the surfer on the board to the left of the collapsing wave??
Another shot of the surfer riding the wave…

While there is access via a narrow path to the beach from the bluff, the beach itself is off limits to dogs – even on a leash. It is a protected marine wildlife area as evidenced by the elephant seals we witnessed while walking along the top of the cliff.

Elephant seals basking in the sun below the cliff

It was a warm day – mid-seventies – and I was delighted to see some flowers blooming!

California Poppy
Erigeron glaucus – Seaside Daisy

We completed the day with a stop at Barbara’s Fishtrap in the small seaside hamlet of Princeton for a taste of some local fish and chips. Delicious!!

Filoli Historic House and Garden 2.12.25

Helleborus species

Enjoyed a stroll around the Filoli Historic House and Garden in Woodside, CA this morning. I love having this place nearby my son’s house and with an annual membership I can visit frequently. Hellebores stole the show today, along with Camellias blooming throughout the garden.

Many Helleborus species are planted in the woodland walk but also given a spotlight in some formal beds. They are some of my favorite perennials – with their early spring blooms and interesting habit.

Delicate helleborus…
Mass planting of Helleborus

Also blooming in the garden are some Daphne shrubs with variegated leaves.

Daphne species

While many of the magnolias are in bloom, their blossoms have suffered with the rain and cold, frosty weather. So, I did not take any photographs of the flowers as they were quite unsightly!

I did poke my head into the orangery – my favorite building on site. I want a building like this!! Is that too much to ask!? Ha!

The inside was decorated with potted bulbs and smelled wonderful!

I love this space!
The outside of the orangery building