Le Puy Camino – via Podiensis: Monistrol d’Allier to Saugues

April 3, 2023

As mentioned in the previous Camino post, we got a slight jumpstart to our walk today thanks to Andre. He dropped us off at the trailhead leading to the Chapelle de la Madeleine. It was a steep 3.7km climb from the trailhead up to the village of Montaure.

Built within the overhang of a grotto on the side of the mountain, the chapel is dated to the 17th century. It is described as a “troglodyte oratory” – a fancy way of saying chapel in a cave! The chapel has been historically considered an important stopover for pilgrims along the Camino de Santiago. One reference I found refers to these pilgrims as “jacquaires” – referencing Saint Jacques. The chapel is named after Saint Madeleine who lived during the turbulent times of the French Revolution. She was a staunch advocate for the education of girls and founded the Society of the Sacred Heart. Through this organization, she established schools for the poor in addition to boarding schools for well-to-do women. Her organization was recognized by the pope in 1826.

The chapel is not open to the public but I was able to hold my camera up to one of the window openings and capture a shot of the interior of the building lit only with natural light.

Leaving the chapel, we ascended the steep trail and had some great views to the valley and Monistrol d’Allier below us.

There’s a small village just above the Chapelle de Saint Madeleine called Escluzels. It’s really not more than a cluster of houses scattered about a couple of small streets with a village fountain near the center of town.

The trail leaves Escluzels and climbs steadily through a series of switchbacks through a semi-forested hillside until reaching the tiny cluster of houses known as Montaure.

The trail follows a dirt road through the countryside and past some small farms before reaching Roziers and the small village of Le Vernet.

As I was walking through this foggy, misty landscape, I wondered what scenery I was missing in the distance and was somewhat dismayed that I was not able to enjoy the long-range view. But, as I continued, I realized just how quiet and peaceful the atmosphere was and the mist became a blanket that enveloped me and gave me comfort. There is beauty in the fog.

I stopped for a snack and a break at a trailside picnic table and some other pilgrims offered to snap my picture. So – a rare photo of me along the trail!

There are always little things along the way that catch my eye. I got a kick out of this statue of a rooster on the stone pillar and also loved the bright blue shutters that really brightened up this scene.

Nearing Le Vernet, the trail veered left past this picnic area – which would have been appealing if the weather was better. There was also a café advertised in this village called the Buvette La Coquille – but sadly it was not open. 😦

Past Le Vernet, the route turned into a single-track trail once again before entering the settlement of Rognac.

Rognac is the last village before taking the descent into Saugues. There were some small farms along the way. I was particularly taken with this small estate.

My maternal uncle, Uncle Roland, was enamored with owls – his “totem” as I like to say. Along the Way, owl representations always caught my eye. I like to believe it meant that he was watching over me from above. The estate above had a carved owl in their yard that took on an eerie ambiance in the mist. I loved it!

Just before reaching the intersection with the D589 roadway, there is a grouping of eccentric wooden sculptures that appeared out of the mist – giving them an air of mystery and intrigue – “Le Chemin des Statues de Bois”

From these wooden sculptures, it was a relatively short walk into the village of Saugues. I arrived in Saugues pretty early – around 1pm – and could not check into the gîte until 3pm. So, I wandered around town looking for a small café to get out of the weather and enjoy a hot cup of tea. I could not believe how busy the town was with traffic and people. Unfortunately, it was Monday and many stores and restaurants close in France on Monday. So, the restaurants that were open were full since it was lunchtime. 😦

I found a small market, bought some food and went about looking for the gîte hoping they would allow me to arrive a tad early. We had reservations at Gîte d’étape Le Par’ici. It is operated by Andre’s daughter and her partner. They welcomed me early and I settled in with my normal routine – shower and change of clothes. They had a really nice communal space for dining and relaxing. As it turned out, Barbara indicated that they intended to be full for the night! I relaxed for awhile in the dining room and ate my lunch and they kindly brewed me a nice hot cup of tea!

Next time – our travels around town, dinner in the gîte, new friends and old – and the trek to Chanaleilles…