Le Puy Camino – via Podiensis: Cajarc to Limogne-en-Quercy

April 19, 2023

Today was a picture perfect blue-sky day!! I started off the day walking for a short while along the Lot River. The walk from Cajarc to Limogne en Quercy alternates between lightly traveled paved backroads and dirt paths. It passes through woodlands and fields and covers close to 19 kilometers. That’s a hefty distance!

Shortly after leaving Cajarc, I noticed a town sitting way up high above the Lot. Then, I eventually realized that the GR65 ultimately meandered right through the center of this walled village of Gaillac.

The architecture in Gaillac is like other towns along this section of the Way. Buildings are made of stone or stucco, topped with red clay tiles.

I left the village of Gaillac. It would be 6 kilometers of countryside before I would reach another small town – Saint-Jean-de-Laur. I would walk through young forests and open country with extensive views.

Just on the outskirts of Saint-Jean-de-Laur, there was the most amazing pilgrim rest stop!! During the high season, it also has a snack bar. There were a few local folks at the rest area cleaning up and getting ready for its official seasonal opening. I was invited to take off my pack and rest a spell. The volunteers who were cleaning up were so very friendly!

I sat and ate a snack. The locals asked me where I was from. When they heard I was from the United States, one of the gentlemen went into the shelter. He brought out an old-timey speaker and set it on the table. I was curious what he was up to! He went back in the shelter and fiddled with something. All of a sudden, The Star-spangled Banner began blasting from the speaker. I was so touched!! Made my day!!

I noticed a plaque on the side of the building. It was a “pilgrim” adaption of a Pablo Neruda poem. I made an effort to translate the passage relying heavily on Google Translate. Noble words to live by…

“He dies slowly, he who becomes a slave to

habit, retracing the same path every day,

he who never changes his landmarks, nor the color of his clothes or who

never speaks to a stranger. He dies

slowly who does not change course,

who does not take risks to realize his dreams…….

Live now, risk today

Act now.

Don’t let yourself die now.

Don’t deprive yourself of being happy.

So Pilgrims, go ahead, set out on the Path and do not

deprive yourselves of being happy because your steps

will be your words, the path your song,

fatigue your prayer.

And then the silence will speak to you.”

Pablo Neruda

The walk today featured old stone walls. There was evidence of the past lifestyle of the region, seen in the form of cabanes.

The park was clearly behind the rebuilding of some of the stone walls along the trail. I was intrigued by the pattern used here where the stones are placed vertically on the top of the wall.

As I grew closer to Limogne-en-Quercy, I stopped. I needed to plug in the address for the gîte – Les Gîtes de Lescurou. It was a bit off the GR65. I had to pass through the village. Then I took a right on a side street. After that, I walked through a neighborhood on the outskirts of town. The gîte was located on a gated property. It was a small structure. The structure was converted into 2 apartments. These apartments were separate from the main house. At 44 euros inclusive of dinner and breakfast, it was a steal. We even had the luxury of a washing machine!! Our host – Charlotte – had a unique way of serving the meals. She prepared the meals ahead of time. Then, she placed them in cartons for us to heat up in the little kitchen in the apartment.

It is always nice to arrive at my new destination and find such beautiful accommodations!! It was a relaxing and peaceful evening here.